What We Do When We're Doing Nothing

December 23, 2012 by B + B

Over Thanksgiving, we had a family Skype with the entire McSchmidt (McCorquodale/Schmidt) clan, with three generations represented. No one gives you grief quite like family, so we were taking heat and tough questions when someone said... "I just want to know what you do everyday." Fair enough.

The truth is that our days are pretty filled with the activities we post about. Intentionally or not, we tend to put a lot into each day and often find ourselves back at our hostel/hotel/guest house exhausted and asking each other what the heck just happened. But, there are times when our energy, budgets or productivity need a little boost, or when we just need a break from being tourists. On those days, life is a little less exciting but still nothing close to reality, because we get to do whatever we want (feel free to hate us, I know we sound like assholes).

Sometimes mother nature has her own plans for us. In this case, she left us stranded in a deluge of rain under an awning in the middle of Chiang Rai. The family who owned the business felt bad and brought us some bananas to eat.

There actually are things we "have" to do. We spend a lot of time working on the blog. We love doing it, even though we can never seem to keep up with it. Brendan is always sitting on a pile of 300+ photographs and there is always new content to be written. Ideally, we'd be ahead so we can do more anecdotal / daily thought posts, but so far, we're just trying to catch up!

We also have to keep track of our budget. I am super lucky on this front as Brendan is a rock star and does most of the heavy lifting (it's almost like he doesn't trust me to manage our money ;). We set up a pretty comprehensive budget sheet when we were planning the trip and since the money we have set aside is all we have, we make sure we know how much of it we've spent, how much we have left and how that tracks over time. It's not usually a fun exercise - we're about 18 days over budget right now thanks to some SE Asia splurges (whoops!).

We also have to research our destinations. We're planning as we go, which means we always have to figure out where we're going next, how we are getting there and if there is anything special we have to do before we get there (visa applications, pre-booked activities, etc.). It's fun work, but takes up a lot of time. There is so much out there, it's easy to get lost in travel guides, blogs, Trip Advisor reviews, Travel Fish articles and conversations with other travelers.

And, we spend a LOT of time in transit. Getting from point A to point B takes a long time when you're traveling in less developed countries on a budget. We have flown a few times, but for the most part, we are on buses, trains, matatus, dolla dollas, mini buses, songtauws or some other form of shared taxi that every country has. We have a love / hate relationship with these modes of transportation. It's definitely a great way to see the country and something we'd highly recommend, at least in moderation. We've had many moments when we're sitting on a bus, listening to Beach House or Dr. Dog through our headphones and looking out the window at the landscape and people, feeling pretty good about life. Then, in the same moment, we realize that I'm covered in the dust that's been flying through the open windows for the last 6 hours, Brendan's sitting in a puddle of his own sweat and our bodies are getting beat up and bruised by the combination of unpaved roads and seriously deteriorated shocks, wheels, seats and crazy driving on whatever public transport we happen to be on. Comfortable and fast, it is not, but it's an experience that still makes us smile. Especially when, as is the case more often than not, we're the only tourists bouncing down the road with the locals. It's such a real experience that sticks with you (not just in the form of soreness).

In our "free" time, we rest. We pass out. We watch TV series on the computer (we finished Rome in Africa and are on season two of the Wire). We go to the movies. We spend slow mornings at coffee shops. We read books. We catch up with friends, family and the world. We wander around neighborhoods and get lost (purposefully and accidentally). We get held up by bad weather. We eat our way through the day. We take naps. We talk.

We've been at this for five and a half months now, and are really starting to appreciate the down days. Especially on days like today that are cold, windy and just make you want to curl up in front of a good book or movie with your honey. Too bad we had to check out of our room at noon :(.

Yi Peng and Loy Krathong

December 18, 2012 by B + B

Looking up into the sky at Yi Peng in Chiang Mai, Thailand has to be one of the most beautiful sights we have ever seen. Nearly 10,000 paper lanterns flood the night sky with light as they float silently away, carrying the hopes and prayers of the people watching from below. Wave after wave of lanterns are released and as the first finally drift out of sight, the newer ones take their place. It's complete chaos on the ground - people calling for torches, trying to be patient as their lanterns fill with hot air, dodging the unsuccessful launches, laughing with one another at the sight of it all. But, in the sky, thousands of lanterns dance together in perfect harmony.

Yi Peng is a festival found only in Chiang Mai, corresponding with the nation-wide holiday Loy Krathong, which is celebrated each year around the full moon of the 12th month of the lunar cycle. Loy Krathong has been one of Thailand's biggest festival for centuries, meant to honor Buddha and praise the water goddess for the year's abundance. In addition to the lanterns, people release floating candles on rivers and waterways. The ceremony is meant to purge you of negativity and darkness and if your float or lantern drifts out of site with the flame still lit, it's a sign of good luck for the year to come. It was total luck that we were in the area at the end of November (full moon was on Nov. 28 in 2012), but once that lined up, we dug into research about the best way to participate. Yi Peng was an obvious choice but really hard to get solid information about. The date changes every year and they host two separate events - a free one for locals and a separate international festival that costs $80. For obvious reasons, the international festival is widely promoted and even has its own dedicated website with all the information you could ever need. On the other hand, information on the free, local event is pretty much non-existent with the exception of a wonderful resource... Travel blogs. Since we found the information on blogs so incredibly helpful, here's a quick rundown of our Yi Peng experience for anyone looking to attend a future festival. If not, there's plenty more pretty pics to enjoy here.

Local vs. International. Up to you, but for us, the free/local event is the way to go. It's more authentic, but still visitor friendly and even had announcements in English so we knew what was going on the whole time. I think the biggest difference in this versus the paid international event is that the latter includes buses to the event site and a gift bag of Lanna keepsakes.

Dates. The dates for the local event are typically not posted until close to the event itself. BUT, historically, it's been the weekend prior to the full moon. For example, in 2012 the full moon was on Nov. 28 and Yi Peng (local) was on Nov. 24. The international event was the weekend after (Nov. 30).

Location & How to Get There. Yi Peng is held at the Lanna International Center, behind Mae Jo University, outside of Chiang Mai. To get there, go down by the river just past the markets in Chinatown in Chiang Mai and look (or ask) for a green songtauw. Tell the driver Mae Jo University. Once the songtauw fills up, it's about 45 minutes to your stop. Get off, and then walk or hop another songtauw through the university to the event site. Once you're at the university, you'll see people heading that way - just follow them. And, it's likely that other travelers or Thais in your songtauw will be going to the event too.

Lanterns. There will be plenty of opportunities to buy lanterns as soon as you get off the songtauw, all the way to the event site. Wait until you're inside to buy them directly from the official event. Outside lanterns will not be allowed in, plus buying them direct is a donation to the monks that put on the event.

Getting Out. This was the worst part. It's unorganized and overcrowded. Be patient and try to leave a little early to avoid the cattle drive. There will be songtauws waiting outside, but they'll charge you up to 10 times what you paid to get there. Up to you whether you want to pay for a quick, guaranteed ride or take your chances closer to the road.

Trekking With Chang in Chiang Mai

December 15, 2012 by B + B

With most of the crew heading back to the states, Brendan, Steph and I jumped a flight to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. Counter to the beaches, sand and sun of the south, Chiang Mai promised mountains, culture and cooler temps. The city delivered on the first two in a big way. As for the weather, we are convinced that Thailand's "cool season" is the longest running international scam in history. If there is one, we haven't found it. Maybe they just keep that rumor out there to get you to book your flight. Once you're here, you'll fall in love with it despite the 99 degree days and 100 percent humidity and learn to live with it.

Steph had three requests for the North: elephants, trekking and "gritty" travel. While we did get fancy and fly to Chiang Mai from Phuket (expensive, but saves time versus the overnight train or buses through Bangkok), sitting on the floor of the Koh Lanta public ferry for three hours with luggage piled around us was a bit more in line with our typical "style" of transportation. First class, all the way. As for the other two, a day excursion booked through Trekking Collective gave us all that and more, thanks to our guide Chang (which also coincidentally is the Thai word for Elephant).

Chang is a Bangkok native, now living in Chiang Mai and working as a partner in the Trekking Collective, an ethical trekking company that puts custom treks together for private groups (we highly recommend it). He's probably about 60, but treks up to 6 days a week and has a childlike enthusiasm for nature, especially orchids. His excitement was contagious and his quirks - like talking to himself, scolding himself for taking a wrong turn or adding the Thai ending "kop" to every English word - were endearing and entertaining. And his stories were legendary. From trekking down from the Burmese border to raising wild cats in his Chiang Mai home, he is a fountain of random tales and tidbits. He picked us up in the morning in his Nissan 4-Runner (trust me, it was a 4-Runner, but not a Toyota) and after a quick stop at the market for ingredients for lunch, we headed out of town to the Mae Song Valley, about an hour outside Chiang Mai.

Thailand and elephants have a long history and tourism is one of the main modern industries for domesticated elephants. We, like many, struggled with the decision to visit an elephant camp. Is it ethical? Are we perpetuating the problem (supply and demand)? How are the elephants treated? Why can't they be free? Would they be if people like us didn't need to jump on their backs for a ride in the jungle? So many questions and conflicting feelings led to a long conversation with Trekking Collective on the the realities of life for elephants in Thailand, elephant tourism and the right ways (or at least not the wrong ways) to get involved. The fact is that without tourism, many of these elephants would be employed in hard labor jobs (logging is now illegal in Thailand, but was the main use for domesticated elephants for many years), would find themselves homeless or "begging in the streets," and would be unable to fend for themselves in the wild. Plus, there are people whose livelihoods rely on the work of an elephant (think farmers back in the day with oxen or horses), so there is an interesting human side to the story as well. However, and this is a big caveat, there are a lot of bad operators and companies out there who mistreat and misuse the elephants. They work them too long, too hard or when they are sick. All because there are people lined up at the door to see the show or take a ride. It is so important to find a good company, camp or conservation center to support if you want to spend time with elephants in SE Asia. The Trekking Collective uses Mae Song Elephant Camp who only work their elephants 4 hours a day and only offer full day programs during low season. Long story long, since we trusted Chang and Trekking Collective, we signed up for an elephant ride and, as you can tell from the pictures, loved every minute. There is something so sweet and special about these gentle giants and being able to spend even a brief time with them was so rewarding.

After the ride, we took a cage over the river (weird, but true... I felt like we were in Robinhood) and started our trek. It was hot. We were sweaty. But Chang's energy, constant stories and the beautiful scenery kept us going. And there were frequent breaks when Chang spotted a new orchid that he had not seen before or that was showing up for the first time this season. He would whip out his video recorder and capture the flower to investigate later (and then talk to himself about it for five minutes). After about 2.5 hours of walking uphill, we arrived at a village where Chang and the homeowner prepared us lunch over a traditional village stove, a clay pot with coals. Luckily for us, and despite the fact that he'll never admit it, Chang is an excellent cook. He says it only tastes good when you're really hungry, hence the trekking. But, his mother was a cook in Bangkok when he was growing up and his comfort in front of the fire is a dead giveaway that he has food in his genes. He even added some drama with, "Prepare your cameras!" before flames flew up from the pan. We ate in the family's kitchen/living room/ bedroom and then relaxed on the porch with panoramic views of the valley. The hike ended with a quick dip in the waterfall and a sleepy drive home to the city. We were beat, but happy from our time with Chang - the man and the elephants.

Chiang Mai Firsts

December 14, 2012 by B + B

Chiang Mai is a mix of old and new, east and west, traditional and modern. It is the capital of Lanna (Northern Thailand) and therefore plays a very important role in the culture of the region, but it's also a University town, bringing a fun, youthful energy into the mix. What it makes for is a laid-back, friendly city with interesting, creative people and places. It actually reminds us a lot of Austin, with a little more history.

Food plays a huge role here, which for us is always a good thing. It's as diverse as the population and while we did have to test out the SE Asian Tex-Mex at "El Diablo," the more traditional Northern Thai dishes are the ones worth writing home about. The street food is excellent and the locals are friendly and always willing to give you a taste - even if it's right off their plate. We had a group of Thais treat us to fried bananas after giving us bites of one of their own - granted, we were staring at it trying to figure out if it was a corn dog! One dish, in particular changed our lives forever. Khao Soi is typically a lunch-only dish, made with egg noodles and either chicken or pork in a savory coconut base (like a curry), topped with crispy fried noodles, lime, raw onion and pickled cabbage. Trekking Collective gave us the heads up on a small, unmarked coffee shop / Khao Soi guru just outside the Chiang Mai gate. We ate there three times during our stay and it would have been five if she hadn't been sold out on two of our visits.

From traditional Thai food to traditional Thai entertainment, we also caught our first Muay Thai fight in Chiang Mai. Muay Thai is similar to kickboxing, with more ritual. We got roped into the extremely touristy version of the traditional sport, complete with English announcers and a welcome drink. Always the tourist snobs, we were disappointed to see that the only locals were the coaches and fighters, but we had ringside seats and big beers and soon were up, yelling for our fighter with the rest of the Farangs. It's actually a really beautiful and brutal sport. Before each fight, the fighters walk the perimeter of the ring, running their gloves along the ropes to bless the space. They then perform a series of stretches, dance moves and bows to honor the sport, ring and other fighter. Then, the fighting starts. And, touristy or not, it was real. The fighters are well-trained athletes and are a lot tougher than they look. One of the perhaps not-so-traditional aspects was the "half-time show" when about seven of the "B Team" fighters came into the ring, were blindfolded and then beat the shit out of each other for 10 minutes. It will go down as one of the strangest things we've seen in Asia (along with two dogs we saw who were stuck together, butt-to-butt). At the end of the night's fights, we got to go in the ring and practice our moves which turned into another hilarious side show of tourists throwing drunk punches and off-balance kicks at one another.

Another show and first for us in Chiang Mai was the infamous lady-boy cabaret. Men in different stages of their transformation to become female dress up and lip-sync popular Western hits and show tunes. It's surprisingly very family friendly and we had such a fun time. Brendan was a good sport, even reaching into our "waitress's" cleavage to get his drink and collect our change while she/he flirted shamelessly with him. I spent most of the show looking for bulges (couldn't help myself) and admiring the ladies' toned bodies, perfect make-up and over-the-top outfits. It was definitely drag at its best, but with more believable ladies. Go girl!

On the opposite side of the fence and in the light of day, we also had some spiritual firsts in Chiang Mai, including a candid conversation with a Cambodian monk and being blessed by an elder in one of the holiest temples in Thailand, Doi Suthep. The mix of traditional and modern influences in Chiang Mai is really apparent in the temples and especially at the Buddhist University, where monks and novices invite foreigners to join them for informal chats in between their daily duties and studies. The point of the conversations is two-fold. One, to share knowledge about Buddhism, Thai culture snd the lives of monks to curious Westerners. And two, to practice their English and learn more about the Western world. Kosal, the 18-year-old Cambodian monk that we sat with was a great example of the old-world and new. He was so excited to hear that Steph worked at Facebook and mentioned that he had a page, but couldn't be friends with girls. Since monks are not allowed to come into contact with women (touching), Steph and I kept a respectful distance, and promised not to stalk him on the FB. While we were sitting with him, Kosal pointed out a group of monks who turned out to be lady boys! He explained that that is possible only in Thailand, Cambodia and other close countries would never be so tolerant. Just another reason to love this country.

Up on the mountain at Doi Suthep, we joined hundreds of Western and Thai visitors at Wat Phra That. The Wat is beautiful to look at and is considered one of the most holy temples in Thailand. It was built when a Buddha statue broke in half and, by a miracle, one of the halves was as large as the original whole. To honor the miracle and choose the perfect location to house the special statue, it was placed on the back of a sacred white elephant, who climbed up the mountain before stopping and circling clockwise three times to designate the chosen spot. Now, to honor the temple, visitors can walk three times clockwise around the original chedi, chanting a sacred song and offering blessings. Somewhat by chance, we ended up inside one of the alters, being summoned by an elder monk to come close and kneel. He then started chanting and showering (not sprinkling) us with holy water as a blessing. A little wet, but very honored to be a part of the ceremony, we received a white string tied around our right wrists to recognize and remind us of the blessing.

We stayed in Chiang Mai longer than any other Thai city and never got tired of it. It's unique culture, flair and flavors have made it one of our favorite cities in Thailand.

Ode to Friends (Koh Lanta, Thailand)

December 13, 2012 by B + B

There once was a group of seven friends
Who traveled far and wide
To find themselves together again
In Thailand, side-by-side

After twenty-four hours in Bangkok
Thailand's capitol city
It was on to Koh Lanta
An island oasis in the Andaman Sea

But first, our stomaches called
For a dim sum breakfast surprise
So a quick stop over in Trang
Filled our bellies and left tears of happiness in Jimmy's eyes

Now, on to paradise
To blue water, white sand and sun
An MTV-Cribs worthy villa
And four days of "complimentary" fun

Spring rolls and sea kayaking
Snorkeling, scuba and island tours
Paper lanterns, fire shows and fireworks
And Happy Joints (a restaurant, of course)

We explored caves on Talabeng
Swam in beautiful Pi Lay Bay
Visited "The Beach" at Ko Pi Pi
And pissed a few jellyfish off along the way

At home, everything we wanted
Was just down Klong Nin beach
And, if not, Rick's personal concierge
Could always be easily reached

We hatched a plan to retire to the island
When we had some available cash
And open a sea-side restaurant
Called Gang Bangers and Mash

On our last night in paradise
We had a family dinner at home
And thought about how lucky we are
To call each other our own

To our amazing friends who traveled so far
Thank you from the bottom of our hearts
For making this week of our trip
One of the most special parts

Getting To Koh Lanta: Trang vs. Krabi

December 13, 2012 by B + B

Most people access the Andaman islands through Phuket or Krabi, but we found a great deal on Nok Air, the cutest budget airline in Thailand (owned by Air Asia). We flew from Bangkok's Don Mueang airport (not BKK) to Trang and arranged a driver from Lanta Info to shuttle us the rest of the way to Koh Lanta from there. Lanta Info also runs speed boat transfers Dec. - Feb., but the van was nice, comfortable and had air conditioning all for around 3,000 baht. All in all, we figure we saved around $40 per person taking the Trang / ground transfer option over the more popular Krabi / speedboat option. And, Trang is actually a great little town that is well-known for its breakfast culture (which is pretty non-existent in the rest of Thailand). We found Ruean Thai, one of the city's best dim sum spots, on this amazing Thai food blog and ended up sampling most of the restaurant's 40 steamed options and fried sides. Oh. My. Breakfast. Trang also has quality coffee shops and bakeries, if you're not into pork buns and crab dumplings for breakfast. After the meal, it's only a few hours' drive and two ferry crossings to Koh Lanta. Easy on your wallet, good for your tummy and off the tourist track.

Power Sightseeing in Bangkok

November 30, 2012 by B + B

With only one full day in Bangkok with the entire crew and an ambitious list of sights to see, we had our hands full. We left the apartment at 9am and hopped on a long tail to China Town. We were tired, hungover and hot - it was about 99 degrees and humid, and made even us native Texans sweat our butts off. But, we were excited to be together in Thailand and were going to make the most of the day, even if it killed us (famous last words).

Our first destination: The Grand Palace. We had heard and read that it's best to go as early as possible to avoid the biggest of the crowds. So true. The Grand Palace is huge and Bangkok's most popular tourist attraction, so its a bit of a hassle, but definitely worth seeing. Get a guide to get the full story and avoid getting overwhelmed - it's cheap, only about 300 baht ($10). The palace was built in the late 1700s and was home to the royal family until the 1920s. It's still used for special events and has a separate estate to house important guests (Obama was rumored to be staying there during his time in Thailand the week after we visited), but most of it is open to the public and operates as a museum. The Emerald Buddha is probably its biggest single attraction, but there are many. It's the Versailles of Thailand (without the sprawling grounds, the GP is right in the middle of the city). Its absolutely beautiful. All of its buildings are covered in gold, adorned with Buddhist history and lore and built perfectly and ornately down to the last detail. Like most everything in Thailand, Buddhism is inherently tied into the art, architecture and purpose of the palace, so it actually feels more spiritual than official.

We were bad tourists and dressed completely for the heat and not for appropriate cultural standards. Our punishment was having to wear the non-breathable skirts, pants and robes provided at the entrance to most sites.

Seeing all the Grand Palace has to offer in the heat and sun with the crowds is a big job and two hours into the tour we were hot and ready to drop. Then, as if by divine intervention, we found our salvation. The smartest vendor in Thailand was selling frozen hand towels to desperate tourists for 30 baht a piece right inside the palace walls. It was life-changing. We rested and cooled in the shade with the ice cold rags around our necks, got our strength back and marched forward.

From the Grand Palace, we headed down the street to Wat Pho, home to the Reclining Buddha, a 45 foot tall half-a-football-field-long golden Buddha, laying on his side, head propped up in his hand. Us ladies dutifully pulled on the provided lime green polyester spa robes - the guys got out of this one as their dress code is a bit less strict. Guys tend to be okay most places in anything that's not a tank top, but women need to have their shoulders and legs covered inside temple walls and in some places (especially more rural) around town. The attire did not distract from the experience at all. The Reclining Buddha is every bit as impressive as the guidebooks build up and the Wat itself is something to behold. Being inside of a temple in Thailand, where Buddhism is as much a part of daily life and culture as food, is something special. You just feel the spirituality of the place. And all that to honor someone who is not recognized as a God, only as the highest example of enlightenment. It's truly amazing and makes you think. As we were regrouping to head on, the clouds came together over the sun in a way that created the most beautiful light. It was like a rainbow without the familiar shape or colors. Or a sunset in the middle of the day with no horizon. Pinks and blues and purples, visible rays. It was enough to render the seven of us speechless for a few minutes as we stared at the sky beyond the Wat's ornate gold trim. And almost enough to make us forget about the heat... Almost.

Exhausted from hours of touring, we hitched a ride with three tuk tuks and raced through the city to our apartment. B, Steph and I were solidly in the lead for the first half, then Rick and Gillian flew past us, followed by Megan and Jimmy who came out of nowhere from a different route. We all fought for position as the tuk tuks bobbed and weaved through Bangkok traffic, neck and neck until the end. I don't even remember who won in the end (probably because it definitely wasn't us), but it was a fun ride.

That night, we got fancy for a night in the town. We started with drinks at Long Table, a rooftop bar overlooking the Bangkok skyline. The drinks aren't cheap by Thai standards, but they offer buy-one-get-one free deals that make it more affordable if you're on a budget. Although, be aware that the buy-one-get-one in this case is for individuals, not the table. So, my glass of white wine magically turned into two in the thirty minutes we were there. Cheers! And the view of the city at night is pretty spectacular. Next up was dinner at Bo.Lan, a Thai fine-dining landmark. We opted for the all-in, family-style set menu which ended up being about 10 different dishes, including a welcome drink, dessert and everything in between. If you're looking for a fine-dining experience in Thailand, this one is great. Good food, great presentation, cool vibe. But, it's not very wallet friendly for travelers. If you're on a budget, no worries - there is plenty of amazing food out there for you. Our meals at Pla Dip and Sebaijai Kebtawan were both outstanding and only $10-$15 a piece with drinks and the street food promises deliciousness for less than $2 a plate. In fact, the more time we spend in Thailand, the more we see that splurging on food experiences is not necessary - even if you appreciate a nice meal like us. The best food is found on the street and in the small stalls that line it. Find locals, go where they go. It will be good. And most likely $2-$3 a person.

The meal was the final nail in the coffin for us weary tourists and we cancelled our wild night out in Bangkok for some sleep and packing for our trip down to the islands the next morning.

Because a 6' 7" white boy needed to stick out more in Bangkok, Rick decided to buy a hat.

No Rest for the Wicked, Especially in BANGKOK

November 30, 2012 by B + B

If our first night in Bangkok was any preview of what is to come... We are going to love SE Asia. Our flight landed at BKK just hours after the US Presidential Election results had been announced, and our driver met us at the gate with a celebratory "Obamanos!" sign. Amazing! We drove out to our apartment, miraculously missing Bangkok's infamous traffic. Awesome! And then between the hours of 10pm and midnight, we ate delicious street food and each had our first Thai massage, all for a grand total of less than $10USD. Incredible! To make things even more exciting, our friends from the States were scheduled to start arriving the next two days!

We spent the majority of our first day in Bangkok eating (shocking, I know) and getting a feel for the city. Being from Austin, the black hole for public transportation, we LOVE cities with easy infrastructure. Bangkok has the metro (subway) and the BTS (sky train) and thousands of taxis, long tail boats and tuk tuks. We ended up staying a bit outside of the action in River Side, but there was a BTS stop a few blocks away to take us into town and long tails were always available to head upriver to many of the historical / cultural sights. Not a bad neighborhood if you want a little peace and quiet or a fancy hotel (the river is where many of the the five-stars are located). But, we suggest Sukhumvit, Ekkamai, or Ari for a little more "energy" and in hindsight, would have stayed in one of those areas. We ended day one with a friend of a friend from Austin who showed up wearing a Longhorn hat and took us for an amazing dinner at Pla Dip in Ari.

Completely by chance, our second full day in Bangkok coincided with a Royal Barge Procession on the Chao Praya River to honor the King's 85th birthday coming up in December and to mark the end of Buddhist Lent when the monks return from walk-abouts in far-flung places around SE Asia. The ceremony has only happened 16 times in the last 50 years years and probably won't again for the next decade, so we jumped at the chance to check it out. The royal fleet of 53 traditional long tail barges and their crew of 2,300 men, all decked out in traditional garb, rowed down the river to Wat Arun, one of Bangkok's most well-known and treasured temples. It sounds somewhat boring, but it was beautiful and impressive with the sleek long tails gliding silently through the water at the hands of their crew, also silent, in front of a temple as the sun set slowly behind it all. And, the mostly Thai crowd was so into it that it was contagious - they love their King! Afterwards, we hustled back to the apartment to meet up with the first of our state-side friends, Rick and Gillian, and hopped on the BTS to a music festival we had heard about the day before.

In Bangkok, looking at live kittens isn't quite enough. They must be accompanied by cute pictures on the iPad...of kittens.

Apparently music festival in Bangkok means something different than in Austin, because it was actually a multi-stage rave. B and I were wiped out and Rick and Gillian were jet lagged, so it wasn't exactly the kind of night we had planned. But, we made the most of it and did our best to hang before admitting we are all old and retiring to the night market outside. That part was pretty great. This specific night market (at the old train station across from Chatuchuk) is where the Bangkok hipster set goes, so there were tons of vintage and artisan crafts along with the regular random wares. And, in true Bangkok style, the was plenty of street food to sample. We wondered through the stalls, grabbing bites and beers until midnight when we had to head back to the apartment to greet the second arrival... Our roommate from Austin, Stephanie.

Day three was long, but one of the greats. Rick and Gillian had to work, so Steph, B and I hopped in a long tail and headed to the floating market up river. On the way there, we went through neighborhoods built on a canal system, somewhat tired and run down, but with the occasion glimpse at the simple Thai lifestyle - women cooking, men fishing, kids jumping into the water (not sure if we would do the same, it's pretty polluted). The floating market turned out to be one big food fest, so we gladly pulled up a chair and chowed on some amazing fish and noodles.

Back on tierra firma, it was off to China Town for some exploration and a visit to Wat Mahathat, a lesser-known Bangkok where the monks are especially open to questions from curious Westerners. We almost gave up when we couldn't find it, but Brendan saved the day with his iPhone and we escaped the hot, crowded streets in the quiet walls of the temple. The highlight of the day came next. We were sitting on the steps of the temple, planning our next move (mostly, how to get home) and this woman walked up and sat with us. She (Marisa) grabbed our map and started showing us all the "to-dos" in the area, complete with times, distances and prices. A tuk tuk driver would stop, show us where to go, wait for us and then take us to the next spot and eventually home. All for 60 baht ($2). As much as we hate to admit, we were immediately skeptical that she was trying to sell us on something else or just straight up scamming us. But, before we knew it we were on our own private tuk tuk being shuttled around the city to the Marble Temple and other sites we never would have seen otherwise. And, at the end of the day, the driver dropped us off at the apartment, collected his 60 baht and left us safe and smiling at what had just happened. We didn't get scammed. We didn't get robbed. We weren't in a ditch. And we got exactly what was promised. It was an unbelievable act of kindness from a local and just one example of how amazingly warm the Thai people are.

From strangers to friends twice-removed, we headed to the BTS to catch a ride into town for a dinner with Debbie and her daughter Leila, who we had been put in contact with through a friend and work colleague back in Austin. What a meal! Debbie and Leila took charge with the ordering after a few questions about our preferences and dietary restrictions (haha) and in moments, plate after plate of amazing food and a two-liter water cooler of beer showed up at the table. Pla Duk Fu was a highlight for us - shredded and then deep fried catfish with a spicy mango salad on top. Yum! If the meal wasn't already memorable enough, we piled into Debbie's car and headed to their favorite Bangkok street food area (Soi 38 on Sukumvit or the Thong Lo stop on BTS) for dessert. We had what we'll call "Ice Soup" that was pieced together from picking any of dozens of "toppings" with a choice of "base liquid". It was definitely something we never would or could have attempted on our own, but luckily Debbie and Leila expertly pieced together a palatable bowl. It wasn't our favorite, but it was interesting and full of surprises. Down the road, we stopped for some Roti, a delicious crepe stuffed with fruit and topped with sugar and condensed milk. The Roti vendor saw us watching in amazement as he expertly flipped the paper thin dough and offered to teach us how to do it ourselves! Leila said she had never seen that happen in Bangkok, so we gladly took advantage. It was much harder than it looked and after some failed attempts, we gave our respect to the vendor and left the flipping to him. The banana roti was delicious and perfectly prepared.

Full and exhausted, we dragged ourselves back to the apartment to meet the third and final installment of our Thailand crew... Jimmy and Megan. It was only midnight, which in Bangkok is equivalent to 8pm, so we did the only logical thing and went right back out for food and drinks. The night ended at 3am, we passed out at the apartment for a few hours and regrouped with the crew at 9am for a day of serious sightseeing.

The crew fully assembled on the other side of the world. Let the party begin!

Final Farewells in Cape Town

November 29, 2012 by B + B in Africa, South Africa

It's only appropriate that our last week in Cape Town has been filled with family, friends and a little adrenaline.

We soaked up every last minute with Mary - hanging at the house, eating breakfast out on the patio, having tea and getting out in the city to some old favorites and new spots. And we reunited with Cape Town friends and the Wild Coast crew for some epic last suppers.

We spent our last weekend in South Africa at a beautiful beach house in Britania Bay with friends Annette and her son Matthew.

Matthew is just wrapping up his first year at university and we quickly found out that South African university students play almost  identical drinking games to the American ones. Unfortunately for us, all we had to use were bottles of de… — Matthew is just wrapping up his first year at university and we quickly found out that South African university students play almost identical drinking games to the American ones. Unfortunately for us, all we had to use were bottles of delicious South African wine. Ouch.

A reunion of friends we've met along our travels in South Africa. This fine Cape Town eating establishment is called The Dogs Bullocks. It only serves burgers (50 per night to be exact) and wine, and there is very little room inside to eat. So we ju… — A reunion of friends we've met along our travels in South Africa. This fine Cape Town eating establishment is called The Dogs Bullocks. It only serves burgers (50 per night to be exact) and wine, and there is very little room inside to eat. So we just ate on the ground in the alley.

During the day, The Dogs Bullocks space serves different food and is known as The Bitches Tits.

And, we decided last-minute to go out with a bang and go shark diving with great whites. We had gone back and forth about shark diving since we arrived in Cape Town. Originally, we were very interested, but some local surfers told us it can lead to shark attacks and bring sharks closer into shore. We also were weary of the ethics of the industry and tour operators - much in the same way as safaris, there is a wide spectrum of opinions and codes of conduct. But, others we met along the way argued that there is no connection between diving and shark attacks - which is why scuba divers never get attacked while under the water - and that there are ethical operators who do it right. Conflicted but excited, we booked with White Shark Diving Co. out of Gansbaai, South Africa, about 2 hours outside of Cape Town. It was a great experience.

Our first shark of the day makes a pass at the bait. This one was big, approximately four meters long.

While sitting in the cage face to face with a Great White is quite the exhilarating experience, the view from the top of the boat offers a completely different (and awesome) perspective. — While sitting in the cage face to face with a Great White is quite the exhilarating experience, the view from the top of the boat offers a completely different (and awesome) perspective.

They picked us up from Mary's house at 4:15am (yikes!) and drove us to Gansbaai. We met the guides, who put us right at ease with their knowledge and respect for the sharks, and took a 25-minute boat ride out to the dive site where we were outfitted with wetsuits, hoods and masks. The guides immediately started chumming the water and in less than 30 minutes... we saw our first great white! Brendan and I jumped at the chance to be first in the cage. The water was shockingly cold - 11 degrees Celsius (about 40 degrees Fahrenheit) - but as we heard the guides yelling, "BAIT! BAIT!" meaning the shark was heading our way, we couldn't feel a thing. Seeing a great white shark is an amazing thing. Neither of us had seen anything outside of a reef shark in the wild before and these are definitely not reef sharks. The first shark was "medium-sized" and measured 3 to 3.5 meters (12-15 feet)! It definitely did not seem medium sized when it swam by the cage, close enough to reach out and touch (if you had a death wish). Throughout the day, we got some epic views of seven different great whites, from the cage and on deck. They are graceful and powerful and amazing to watch. The most surprising thing for us was that, while the great whiles are obviously killing machines, they did not seem aggressive. If anything, they were curious and timid in their approach. We left feeling completely exhilarated by the day and in awe of the ocean's apex predator.

Looking back over the past three months, it seems all at once like a lifetime ago and to have flown by overnight. We have so many amazing memories - visiting the Maasai cu cus, shoveling trash and planting trees with CTC in Kenya, being spoiled rotten on the beach in Zanzibar, taking the never-ending train-ride through Tanzania, being one with nature in Zambia, swimming in Victoria Falls, falling in love with a city and all it has to offer in Cape Town and experiencing more new people, places and things than we deserve. More than anything, we are so appreciative of the people we spent time with along the way - strangers who amazed us with their courage and generosity, friends that we will keep beyond Africa and family that means the world to us.

We're moving forward, but a big piece of our hearts is staying behind on the dark continent.

Hiking Around Cape Town

November 24, 2012 by B + B in Africa, South Africa

Our last two weeks in Cape Town have been an absolute blur. We got back from the Wild Coast, water-logged and a little stir-crazy, and hit the ground running (or more accurately, hiking). Mary took us to the Newlands Forest and the Contour Path, which is a great series of moderate walking trails through the forest below Table Mountain. It's cool and shady and was the perfect warm up for our car-weary legs.

We also finally got to climb Table Mountain! We took the Skeleton Gorge route which is through Kirstenbosch Gardens. Unfortunately, you have to pay to enter the park, even if you just cut through to the trailhead. We think you can also get there from Constantia Nek or Rhodes Memorial to avoid the extra cost (around $10/person). It was a great hike - challenging and beautiful. The trail is pretty steep, but is wonderfully maintained and there are stairs, ladders and hand holds to help you along the way. Our favorite part of the climb was hiking up a waterfall in the middle of the forest. We got wet (nothing new for us after the Wild Coast) but the water was cool and felt great! Getting to the top took a bit longer than expected - it's about 4 hours up and as with most journeys the last bit seems to take forever. But, once we made it, we were rewarded with amazing views of the city. We walked the perimeter of the mountain (which is flat on top, like a table) and made our way to the cable car and bar area on the other side. We drank a cold beer and decided to pay for the cable car down - our legs were shot and our stomachs were empty. Mary met us at the base and swept us off to an amazing dinner at Royale, a well-known burger joint on Long Street.

The next day was a road trip out to Cape Point. Cape Point is not quite the southern most point on the continent, but it's definitely more scenic and more accessible from Cape Town. And, there are great stops along the way. Our first was Olympia Deli in Kalk Bay, a Cape Town staple that's been serving breakfast and lunch to hippies and beach bums for decades. The food was delicious, but burgers the night before and a big breakfast made for a few tummy aches. Not that we would let a little thing like that stop us. We headed on to Boulder's Beach, where hundreds of Atlantic Penguins make their home year round. We walked out to the beach expecting to see the March of the Penguins only to find a few tourists sitting in front of changing huts. Confused, we walked back to the entrance and learned that the best times to see the penguins are in the morning around 8am and in the evening around 5pm. Luckily, we could easily swing back by on our way home, so we left Boulder's and drove south the Cape Point.

Before heading back towards the penguins, we made a quick stop at Scarborough Beach, where I slept (and got stuck) in the car and B and Mary explored the shore. The penguins were waiting for us when we got back to Boulder's around 5, as promised. It was definitely worth the second trip. They are funny and entertaining birds, especially when they run.

Another highlight of the last two weeks were the sunsets. They were brilliant. And almost every night. We caught several above Camp's Bay, at Sunset Beach (appropriately named) and, our favorite, from the summit of Lion's Head. We hiked up with a cooler and bottle of wine, watched the sun go down and then realized we had no head lamps for the way down. Luckily, we did have liquid courage from the wine, so we scrambled down slowly, making friends along the way and stopping to see the city at night. The night view is almost as awesome as the sunset. Definitely do this if you're in Cape Town... But don't forget flashlights or headlamps!

Getting out and about in Cape Town again made us fall in love with the city all over again and was a bittersweet reminder than in one week, we'd be saying goodbye.

Wild Coast Part II

November 23, 2012 by B + B in Africa, South Africa

Back in September, on a 22-hour stopover in Lusaka, Zambia between safari and Vic Falls, we met a fellow American named Anthony. He sat with us for coffee for a grand total of 15 minutes telling us a few stories about his year motorcycling through Africa. He also mentioned that his favorite spot, "the most beautiful place in the world," was on the Wild Coast in South Africa. As it ended up, that place was Lubanzi, which is only a four-hour walk from Bulungula and our obvious second stop on the Wild Coast.

We weren't really sure what to expect of the walk from Bulungula to Lubanzi. We only knew that if you follow the coastline, you'd eventually find it. After our traumatic taxi experience, we decided to play it safe and hire a guide - a 19-year-old boy from the village - to lead the way. And, after making the trek, we were glad we did. There are no established trails and the chosen route took us along the beach, up hills, across rivers and through pastures. It is definitely doable on your own (again, just follow the coastline), but was nice to just be able to enjoy the moment and the amazing views and we were also more than happy to support the local economy. We had packed light knowing we would have to carry all our stuff with us and our guide nicely offered to carry my backpack, leaving me with Brendan's pack and Brendan with the big bag. The help was amazing and let one of us (let's be honest, Brendan) avoid carrying two bags, but we found out the hard way that if a stranger carries your stuff for a four-hour hike, it will probably end up smelling like him. The walk was gorgeous, and guide or no guide, smelly back pack or no smelly back pack, it's totally the best way to travel the Wild Coast.

We arrived at Wild Lubanzi Backpackers and were treated to a welcome beer - the first of many during our stay - and took a look at our new home. We didn't get far on the tour when we saw a somewhat familiar face. Anthony from Zambia, the reason we went to Lubanzi, was back at the lodge for a second stay! And we could see why. Lubanzi is strikingly beautiful. The lodge is set on a high cliff, overlooking not only the beach and ocean, but also sheer cliff faces on the other side of the valley. In the morning, we could see whales breeching and dozens of dolphins playing in the surf from the picture window in our room. It's unreal and immediately comfortable all at the same time.

But, the best thing about Lubanzi is the people. It runs like one big, dysfunctional family. The owners, Aiden and Rahel, live on property and have built the lodge one room at a time. It seems like they've purposefully kept it small, quiet and off-the-beaten-path enough to maintain an intimate vibe (as much for them as the guests). You have to work to get here and if you're not willing to or want to be catered to once you're there, it's probably not for you. Along with Aiden and Rahel, the lodge-family included two volunteers, Kyle and Kelley, Anthony and Cashew and Carab, two huge Rhodesian Ridgebacks that have the run of the property. We helped out in the kitchen, picked herbs and veggies in the garden, grabbed ourselves beers (marked down on a ledger, of course) and settled in to the slower pace. A few days later, a Polish couple who had also been recruited by Anthony joined us at the lodge and brought the rain with them.

It rained for days with no relief, leaving me, Brendan, Marta and Maciek stranded at Lubanzi with no way out. The roads were too muddy for their car and the ground was too soggy for us to walk. It definitely sounds worse than it was. Lubanzi is a great place to be stuck. We had good food, good company and, despite the clouds, a pretty good view of paradise. We got out and walked the village when we could. We played Brandy Dog - a game that we will definitely be bringing back to the states with us. And we drank a lot of beer. So much, in fact, that we ran out and the guys had to make a daring run to the shebeen in the rain. Even though they nearly got the car stuck and had to carry three cases of beer uphill, through the mud for 20 minutes, it was a successful mission. Until we drank it all that same night. Trying to make sober fun, we set up a sheet, hooked up the projector and popped some popcorn for movie night. All-in-all, we had a fun lock-in for three days, but the four of us were getting antsy.

Our chance for freedom came the morning after movie night. The skies cleared for a few hours, long enough to make the roads somewhat passable for Marta and Maciek's small rental, and they were nice enough to let us hitch a ride. As soon as we were out on the main roads, the skies opened back up. We drove for two days and over 1,000 kilometers and there was not one break in the rain. There were "waterfalls" everywhere - sheets of water coming down the cliffs to the road and down the other side. It was so bad, that a bridge on the road we were driving washed away - less than an hour after we had crossed it. Luckily, Maciek is an excellent and cautious driver - and he and Marta are wonderful company. We kept ourselves entertained with good conversation (mostly about travel and food), made a few stops and found our way to Plettenburg Bay where Brendan and I threw in the towel and bought tickets on the night bus to Cape Town. Mary had told us that the weather at home was sunny and with seasonal depression disorder setting in hard, we needed to get there fast.

We pulled up in Cape Town at 10am the next morning, just as the first rain drops were falling on the city. If we weren't so tired, we would have cried. Maybe I even did. It turns out, the rain had been some of the worst in the Eastern Cape's recent history. Roads were washed away (our bridge had actually made national news), villages were cut off from food and people were stranded. We considered ourselves extremely lucky to be back on somewhat dry land with family and our hearts went out to those still on the Wild Coast.

Even though our excursion to the Wild Coast was cut short, it was well worth it and lived up to its name in more ways than we could have imagined.

The Wild Coast

November 21, 2012 by B + B in Africa, South Africa

Outside of spending time with Mary in the Mother City, our South Africa agenda had one major detour - a three week trip up the Eastern Cape to the Wild Coast. Like its name implies, the Wild Coast is relatively untouched and untamed. It falls between Port St. John and East London and consists mostly of small villages and long stretches of some of Africa's most beautiful coastline. The Xhosa tribe has been living in the area for centuries and the culture and way of life has remained relatively unchanged over the years. Our plan was fairly loose - get out to the coast and hike north from village to village until we were ready to turn around. And, with two months of traveling Africa under our belts, we were up for an adventure.

Unfortunately, our over-confidence was immediately tested (or punished). After a 13 hour bus ride from Cape Town to Mthatha that we shared with the one-and-only crying baby in Africa, we had a choice to make. Pay for door-to-door shuttle to the remote lodge OR spend far less and get a night at the lodge free by taking a local taxi? With our experience and obvious expertise in the world of matatus, dolla dollas and minibus taxis combined with our general cheapness, we gladly took the local taxi option. We walked to the long-distance taxi stand thinking, "We got this." What we found at the unmarked stand to Bulungula (our final destination) was at once unfamiliar and terrifying and made the broken down minivans in Kenya and Zambia look like limos. A small truck (think Ford Ranger) about 15-years-old but worn well beyond its years with a rusted-out camper-top loaded to its breaking point with metal fencing, giant bags of grain, rice and flour and other purchases necessary for life in the sticks stood before us. The tailgate was open, revealing a perimeter of unfinished 2x4s that were to be our seats for the two hour drive and four "windows" that were covered with plastic, blocking light and fresh air. Trying to be good sports, and simply out of other options, we climbed in. For the next hour, we waited for the taxi to "fill up" which, in African terms, apparently means 12 people for every 4x6 space. When everyone was in - me, Brendan, and 10 not-so-small Africans, we had a panic attack. "We need to get out! We need to get out now!" Our desperate cries went unanswered as the truck started up and headed out.

For the next 2 hours, Brendan and I dealt with things in our own ways - I closed my eyes and went through list after list of what I'm thankful for and Brendan attempted to zen out and think of anything besides his bruised, swollen ankle (a Cape Town hiking injury) buried under everything. The entire trip was over unpaved, uneven roads and with every bump the roof buckled under the weight of its too-heavy load. It felt nothing short of being smuggled into or out of a country, without the hope of freedom or opportunity on the other side. And then it started raining.

Long story long, we made it. Fortunately, it was all a means to a beautiful end and walking down the final stretch of road to Bulungula (the taxi would only take us so far and dropped us off out of sight of the lodge or any landmarks) almost made us forget the pain of the journey. Until we discovered that our bag was being held hostage by our new bag lock. We borrowed a hack saw from the lodge so Brendan could cut our way into clean clothes and before we passed out, we vowed to never to use locks or give ourselves too much "experienced travelers" credit again.

Now about Bulungula... It's a small lodge - a collection of the local huts or rondevals and a common area - set on a low cliff overlooking a private stretch of beach with white sand and deep blue water. The beach is lined with rolling hills and jagged cliffs, feeling more like the Scottish highlands than Africa if not for the warmer weather. There are no locks on the doors and no crime in the village. The only reason you have to close your door at all is to keep the lodge dogs and village goats from wandering in. But, they were smart enough to install Dutch doors (bottom and top opens separately) so we could lay in bed and look out the open top door to the ocean and horizon during the day and the stars at night. And, even without A/C in the rondevals, the clay bricks and cool outdoor air made for perfectly comfortable naps and nights. The simple life is a good one.

We had no agenda and no check out date, so we took it slow. Reading, walking the beach, lounging, eating traditional Xhosa food (which consists mainly of rice and pretty tasty meat stews), napping and chatting with other guests. When we needed a little activity, we went canoeing on the Xhoha river, wandered around the village and visited our first local shebeen (bar).

The shebeens are interesting places, for sure. On one hand, it's exactly as you'd expect - a structure of sorts with people drinking and making merry inside. On the other hand, it's a completely foreign experience. Men and women sit on opposite sides of the room, usually on mats on the floor or stools fashioned out of boxes. When we arrived, we were offered our choice of 1 liter or 14 liters of the local maize beer. Slightly terrified of the paint-bucket sized beer (that literally comes in a paint bucket), we opted for a liter, which promptly was served in a rusty tin can. Luckily, everything at the shebeen is community property, so the locals helped us finish every drop. We bar-hopped over to shebeen number two which thankfully served delicious, hot Carling beer from a bottle and hosted a rowdier crowd, dancing to tunes coming out of a patron's cell phone. I tried my hand at African dance, but needed a few more tin cans before I could match the moves of the locals. Brendan and the other men looked on and laughed at us from their side of the room.

Our favorite day was an early one. We woke up at 4:15 for sunrise (east coast means sun rise is much more brilliant than sunset) and headed out to the beach with the lodge dog, Kila, at our side. We found a spot on a dune over some low tide pools and watched the world wake up. We were completely alone except for the rising sun, the moon and Jupiter (huge and bright next to the moon) and a lone fisherman out on the rocks getting an early start to the day.

We headed back to our room around 5:30, fully expecting to pass out, but were so energized from the sunrise that we packed a bag and headed down the far side of the beach to check out more of the village and surrounding area. We walked to the edge of the point, about an hour from the lodge to a secluded (or so we thought) beach. We set up camp, read and relaxed until a gaggle of curious village girls came down to check us out. We hung out with them for a bit, trying our best to communicate (the Xhosa language is by far the hardest we've come across - anytime there is an X, it's actually a clicking sound) and entertained each other with photos. Eventually, our stomachs got the best of us and we headed back, only to run into a few local fishermen with a fresh catch of crayfish (basically lobster with no claws). We bought two and took them back to the lodge for breakfast. I don't even remember what we did for the rest of the day, but the morning was something special.

Appreciative of our time at Bulungula, but ready to move on, we arranged to meet a local guide the next morning for the 4-hour trek to the next village over, Lubanzi.

Wining & Dining in Franschhoek, South Africa

November 17, 2012 by B + B in Africa, South Africa

Yet another wonderful benefit of life in Cape Town is it's proximity to hundreds of the best wine farms on the continent. And, where there is good wine, there is good food. And where there is good food and good wine, B and I can usually be found. So, this weekend, the Bs and Mary packed up the Polo and headed to wine country for a little R&R and a lot of eating and drinking. We didn't have to drive far to begin the festivities - Stellenbosch is the first official wine-country-town and is only about 30 minutes outside of Cape Town on the way to Franschhoek, our final destination. So, by 10am we found ourselves sitting around a table at Ken Forrester, a small family-owned-and-run wine farm, sipping Chenin Blanc and other light white "breakfast wines." Another tasting followed at Kleine Zalze and before lunch on day one we were well into our best wine-tasting characters and had managed to "accidentally" leave several purchased bottles behind like a trail of bread crumbs (which we picked up on our way home a few days later).

We arrived in Franschhoek and amazingly found our way to Bedside Manor, our adorable home-away-from-home for the weekend. The owners are interior decorators and the house is very well done. Our favorite spot was the sun room looking out onto a side-yard garden. And, if the weather had been warmer, the backyard and pool would have been at the top of the list. To top it all off, we got a great deal and it was so much cheaper than most hotels in the area, with so much more to offer. Thank you Home Away!

Franschhoek is beautiful. It's Napa, but even more dramatic - or maybe the idea of drinking amazing wine overlooking picturesque vineyards in AFRICA just makes it seem that way. And, most of the wine farms are just that - small, family-operated farms. Our favorite vineyard and tasting was at Le Petit Ferme. The owner, who was a farmer in his earlier life, built the place by hand and gave us the tour personally. He loves the romance of wine making and gives all the credit to the French for doing it right. However, he did divulge that a massive insect outbreak in the mid-19th-century killed all the vines in the world with the exception of the US, so, technically, all wine currently grown in the world is from American plant stock. America... F#*k yeah! The French couple in our group was not amused. Either way, the tour, the owner's knowledge, enthusiasm and general awesomeness and the wonderful wine made for a great experience.

If we weren't spoiled enough already, Brendan and I splurged that night and treated ourselves to an amazing dinner at one of the best restaurants in Africa. To get snobby for a second... The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Frances has been named one of the 50 best restaurants in the world eight times and the Best Restaurant in Africa and the Middle East four times. The executive chef, Margot Janse takes traditional Cape-Malay to a fine-dining level, but makes sure that each dish has its own story. So, the dinner is an eating and educational experience all in one. The laid-back vibe of the restaurant and the friendly, communal wait staff made the 3.5 hour, 5-course meal and wine pairing fun and informal.

The next day brought more tastings, more delicious food and more memories with Mary (the ones we can remember at least). We tasted at Boekenhoutskloof and Moreson, sipped bubbly at Haute Cabrierre. We ate at Bread and Wine, Rueben's and the Cafe de Arte. We'd recommend them all with the exception of Rueben's, which felt a bit like a chain steakhouse (Rueben is actually a Cape Town institution, so hopefully no one is offended). We finished off the wine-tasting weekend with another drive through Stellenbosch to pick up our lost wines and visit beautiful Tokara - for a tasting and food. Our friends Chrissy from San Francisco (that we met in Kenya) and Ralph, an ex-professor from Durban with a soft-spot for science fiction drove out to join us. We celebrated with bubbles and dessert oysters and goofed around around on the vineyard's rustic, artsy playground.

Note that all the indulgence did have a price... I can't speak for Mary or Brendan on specifics, but I gained 3 kilos over the weekend, which when converted equals about 6 pounds. Yikes! Yoga anyone?

Kirstenbosch Gardens

October 30, 2012 by B + B in Africa, South Africa

Kirstenbosch Garden is a collection of stunning botanical gardens in the heart of Cape Town. Today, we walked through the park (easily an all-day activity), spread out a blanket and read in the sun for the afternoon and finished the evening with an appetizer and glass of wine at Moyo, the in-garden restaurant. Not too shabby!

For lovers of plants and just plain beauty, Kirstenbosch is a must-do. Manicured paths meander through acres of native plants from Southern Africa, including common fynbos (a genus with hundreds of different species in the Cape), 200 million year-old cycads and prominent, colorful proteas, including our favorites Pin Cushions and Silver Trees. The city has done an amazing job putting together the park. In the summer they have Sunday night concerts, which gives us a good excuse to come back in December.

Hybrid Protea in honor of Nelson Mandela

Lion's Head

October 30, 2012 by B + B in Africa, South Africa

Along with Table Mountain and Devil's Peak, Lion's Head is one of the prominent landmarks in Cape Town (appropriately named for its profile which looks strikingly similar to the head of a lion). It's also one of the many hike-able areas around the city. All roads lead to the top and the 360 degree views of Cape Town encourage locals and tourists alike to make the climb.

It's more of a walk until you get closer to the peak, then all of a sudden, you have to go straight up. When given two options, we, of course, chose the path that was labeled "not recommended" and ended up having to use a few ladders, chains and handholds to make it up. We thought we were pretty hardcore until we saw some kids blazing the trail in front of us.

It only takes about an hour to get to the top (compared to the much longer Table Mountain hikes) and the views of the Twelve Apostles, Camps Bay, Clifton, the harbor and the city are amazing. If we have time, we'll go back up with a bottle of wine for sunset - it's a popular spot to watch the moon rising on a full moon as well.

There was one casualty for the day - Brendan's ankle got mangled in a nasty fall on the way down. Texting, talking and hiking do not mix!

West Coast National Park & Langebaan Lagoon

October 30, 2012 by B + B in Africa, South Africa

Our first day trip out of the city took us up the Western Cape to West Coast National Park and Langebaan Lagoon, about an hour's drive from Mary's home in Observatory, Cape Town. The purpose of the trip was wildflowers - during season (August-September) the hills are covered in pink, purple, yellow, orange and white. We caught the tail end, and there were still beautiful flowers to see, but the overall scenery was what really impressed us.

And, we had the entire place to ourselves (with the exception of a few seagulls). We explored the park and walked the better part of 11 Mile Beach to see what remains of a Greek cargo ship that ran aground back in the 1980s. It is just one of many wrecks along the South African coastline - the conditions at sea are not for the faint-hearted. We finished the day with a late lunch at Geelbek, a restored 1860s homestead that serves seafood and traditional Cape-Malay. The food was good, but the bottle of wine was even better.

Noordhoek Beach

October 30, 2012 by B + B in Africa, South Africa

There is no shortage of beach options in Cape Town - the city nearly surrounded by water, so you don't have to look far to find waves and some sand. But, Noordhoek Beach is a must see. Getting out there is one of the most beautiful drives in the city, curling around the side of cliffs past Hout Bay, overlooking the Atlantic, and ending in a 16km white sand beach with clear blue water.

Not a bad way to spend an afternoon. Especially if you bring beach bats and a frisbee, which we've begun to master (note from Brendan that he is already a frisbee champ).

The water is freezing, so we didn't do much swimming, but there was a cool breeze, cold beers and good company to keep us comfortable.

The Mother City - Cape Town, South Africa

October 30, 2012 by B + B in Africa, South Africa

Cape Town is called the "Mother City" because it was the first metropolis in South Africa. But for us, it is the "Mother City" because that is where Brendan's mom (and my African mama), the lovely Mary Hegarty, has called home for the last fourteen years. We would be lying if we said she was the only reason we chose to start the trip on the dark continent, but there were definitely some heart strings on both ends drawing us to Cape Town. And, in the middle of a trip full of unfamiliar places, away from family and friends, it has been so nice to find home half way across the world.

We got to Cape Town a few weeks earlier than planned, meaning we will have a full eight weeks in South Africa. With the exception of a three week vacation (from vacation) on the Wild Coast, we will spend most of our time in and around Cape Town. It will be our longest stay to date in any one country... But still probably won't be enough time with Mary or the Mother City, as each is equally easy to fall in love with.

Cape Town is a dramatically beautiful city, maybe one of the most beautiful in the world, in our opinion. It's nestled in between oceans and mountains, so no matter where you are in the city, you probably have amazing scenery in at least two directions. Cape Town is, as Kenny McCorquodale likes to say, "postcard material."

It also has a vibrant, colorful culture that is, perhaps not surprisingly based on the diverse population, a cosmopolitan mix of European, Middle Eastern and African. Walking down the street, you see people of all colors, shapes and sizes, with different stories, nationalities, beliefs and backgrounds. It is truly an international city, at it's roots as much as on the surface. And that international foundation has led to different influences on art, architecture and, luckily for our inner-foodies, cuisine.

The food in Cape Town is amazing. We have not had a bad meal in the city - including more than a handful of delicious home-cooked dishes. The food has been so good in fact, that we'll put together an entire page of restaurant recommendations and recipes before we leave. It's too much to describe in detail!

The nice part about having so much time in one place is that you can really see the city as a local. It also doesn't hurt to have an amazing tour guide. Mary knows what makes the city special and shares it with us everyday. We've definitely been working our way through the "must-do" list of sights and activities, but in between, we've joined a yoga studio, figured out the local transportation (minibus taxis and trains), explored the city, strolled neighborhoods, made friends, attended epic Sunday lunches and house parties, watched countless picture-perfect sunsets, celebrated national holidays and sat in front of the fire with a glass of South African wine with a good book or a competitive game of Scrabble.

Long story short, it feels good to be home with mama Mary in the "Mother City."

Swimming in Victoria Falls

October 26, 2012 by B + B in Zambia, Africa

"When you jump, make sure you jump out, toward the falls. Let the current pull you to the edge, and then catch yourself on the shelf before you go over." Brendan went first. He jumped off the rocks, floated several feet down river and sat up on the four-foot ledge that stands between the top of the Zambezi and Victoria Falls. Just behind him, water fell down the 350 foot drop sending white clouds of mist back up the length of the Falls and creating a perfect double rainbow (what does it mean?!). I followed and in a matter of minutes we were both sitting of the edge of a waterfall.

To be completely honest, the experience saved the visit to Victoria Falls Park. During dry season, the Falls don't exactly form the thundering curtain of water you've seen in photos and guidebooks. It's still very pretty and it's nice to miss the crowds, but we found ourselves walking the trails wondering if "that" was Victoria Falls. We were worried that we'd leave disappointed, but getting to swim to the edge of the Falls completely made up for it. It was a different pay off than we'd expected, but in many ways it was even more memorable. Moral of the story... If you can't see Vic Falls at its most impressive (Nov. - April.), make sure you can get in the water! Note that you can only do this on the Zambia side (Vic Falls straddles Zambia and Zimbabwe) during dry season so plan accordingly!

Two days before our swim, we had reluctantly left South Luangwa, driving through the park one last time on our way out behind a pair of giraffes on a morning stroll. We flew from Mfuwe to Lusaka, found our way back to Lusaka Backpackers and hopped a bus to Livingstone the next morning after a quick breakfast and a chance meeting with a fellow American (more on that in a later post). We wanted to check out (and off) Victoria Falls before we left Zambia. We arrived in Livingstone completely un-researched. We only wanted to see Victoria Falls and figured we could easily wing it. We were right... Livingstone is small and the Falls are by far the biggest attraction.

We found a taxi at the town center, got a ride out to Victoria Falls National Park and inquired about the "Devil's Pool Experience" which we had seen advertised at our lodge the night before. Within an hour (and after signing some papers promising we wouldn't try to fly off the waterfall and preventing us from suing anyone if we did), we headed out along the dry edge of the Falls. The walk takes about an hour and offers some nice views of the Falls along the way.

Like many activities in Africa, there are few (if any) rules, so we were limited only by our own comfort zone and common sense - if we had wanted to try hand stands on the edge, our guide probably would have wished us luck. We opted out. After the walk, we were told to disrobe and swim across a section of the Zambezi over to a small rock "island." The river signifies the heart of Victoria Falls, and there is a current to prove it. There is a small net between the swimmers and the edge, but it was some comfort to know that Brendan and I are both decent swimmers. Our guide kept the boogie board to himself. Once we were all safely on the rocks and issued our basic instructions, we jumped in. For the next 20 minutes, we swam, "flew" over the edge, posed for photos and waved at those less fortunate tourists in Zimbabwe.

Before we left the park, we walked down to the lower part of the river, to an area called the Boiling Pot and watched a bungee jumper have her own adventure. We also haggled at the market for a "handmade" ebony elephant and finally got a great price of 35,000 Kwacha (about $6). We've seen the exact same elephant in every market since, so I'm pretty sure we were duped, but we got to practice our good cop (Brittni) / bad cop (Brendan) negotiating tactics, so all-in-all, it was a successful shopping trip.

Dinner at the Zambezi Cafe that night turned out to be a pleasant surprise... By far the
best fish we've had in Africa! We went to bed satisfied with our Vic Falls excursion and woke up ready for Cape Town.

South Luangwa Safari

October 07, 2012 by B + B in Zambia, Africa

After the three-day train ride and a night at a backpacker's lodge in Lusaka, we were ready for a little luxury. It's all about balance right? Luckily, it was time for safari, by far the biggest indulgence of our trip. We flew to Mfuwe (quite a different experience and crowd than the Tazara train line) and were whisked away by Shenton Safari's head guide and owner. Beers and sandwiches were pre-packed to ensure we didn't go hungry or thirsty (a theme on safari) and we popped open a cold one, sat back in the open-air vehicle, and toasted the coming week.

We chose Shenton Safaris for several reasons. First, it's located in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia, one of the best game-viewing areas in Africa and shockingly also one of the least commercialized. Second, Shenton Safaris is an ethical operator with both a permanent and bush camp (built from zero footprint each year for minimal impact) offering a wide variety of experiences without the crowds. We were two of six total guests at each camp and rarely saw other vehicles in the park. After hearing stories of 17-car pile-ups in the Serengeti and worrying that game-viewing could end up more like a day at the zoo, having the park basically to ourselves was a wonderful surprise. And, to top it off, the few other people at camp with us were some of the most interesting and enjoyable we've met to date. Third, Shenton specializes in photography and understand intimately how to facilitate the best shots, which is great for my better half who is becoming quite the talented photographer (prepare yourself for some great ones). And last, and most important, Brent Harris. Brendan's mom introduced us to Brent when we decided Africa would be the first stop on our trip. He is an extremely experienced and knowledgable guide who is contagiously passionate about his work and the world around him. He was so helpful in shaping our safari experience and, in the end, we followed him to Zambia, where he's been guiding for the past several years. If you ever want an authentic nature experience in Africa, in Zambia or elsewhere, look him up though his Primal Pathways company. He absolutely made our trip something special.

With Brent's help, we took full advantage of our six days on safari. Each day started with a 5:15 morning drive, offered an afternoon trip to one of Shenton's photographic hides and ended with an evening drive. Between activities, we were fed... And fed... And fed some more. We spent time at both camps, and got to stay two nights out in nature - an experience we will not soon forget. The first was in the Elephant Hide - a treehouse built for two overlooking the Luangwa River. Armed with a bottle of wine and a spotlight, we listened to the sounds of the river below us and the forest around us and slept like babies in the middle of it all. The next morning we learned that lions had killed a buffalo just down the river from us, but we slept right through it! We woke up with the sun, feeling more refreshed than we had in weeks.

That afternoon, we packed up our backpacks and walked about 3 hours to a remote campsite to sleep under the stars. The camp was simple - a mattress under a mosquito net with a fire perimeter and a Zambian anti-poaching scout named Gideon for protection. The walk to and from the site and sleeping out in the Zambian bush was an entirely special and humbling experience. By stepping out of the Land Rover and luxury lodge, you immediately become aware of the world around you... And it of you. In the vehicle, the animals don't recognize you as human or as a potential threat. You can drive right up to them with as little as a lazy look in your direction (which is still extremely cool, don't get us wrong). On foot, you're exposed and identified as a predator. You have to use your animal instincts and senses to get to know your surroundings - both to find the things you want to find and avoid those you don't. It truly feels like you are part of nature, not just passively viewing it. At one point, we inadvertently walked into the middle of a herd of elephants. We had to be careful to stay downwind so as not to be noticed, and got to watch them for nearly 20 minutes without them even knowing we were there before taking a long detour to get around the herd safely. Camping safari-style, even in its most basic form, does come with its perks. Most notable for us... Not having to set up or break down camp!

Thanks to Brent and Shenton, we came away from safari sufficiently spoiled (and a few pounds heavier), but also more knowledgable and appreciative of vast wilderness and wildlife. We became unsuspecting birders - they are amazing to learn about, listen to and watch. We fell in love with elephants and suspect the feeling was mutual as they followed us around everywhere. We saw the beauty in the gore - who knew watching lions tear apart a puku could feel so natural? We read the signs of the bush - tracking a leopard on foot. We got nervous with a few close encounters with elephant and lion. And we were impressed at the efficiency and effectiveness of nature - as the "smarter species" we can learn so much from it.

There are too many highlights to describe, so luckily we have about 150 photographs to do most of the talking for us. Check them out here.