Looking back on our time and blog posts to date, we realize we're still in trip honeymoon phase and obviously enamored by CTC. But it hasn't been all puppies and rainbows - or more appropriately, sunshine and giraffes. So, here is the "dirt" on our trip so far. There will be plenty more to come as we get road-weary, homesick, stinky, etc. Thanks for the inspiration Steph!

One-Stop-Shop Bathroom
The toilet + shower + sink combo at the Transit Motel, Maai Mahiu's finest accommodation option, made for some interesting - and efficient - mornings in Kenya. In addition to being able to get a lot done at one time, it kept options close at hand. For example, if the hot water ran out or if the water shut off altogether - both of which happened often - you could turn the sink into a wash basin and make your own bucket shower. We later found out from a pediatric neurosurgeon that the in-unit heater on the shower head is known affectionately in medical circles as the "widow maker" due to the large number of shorts and electrocutions. Insider tips for using the one-stop-shop bathroom: wear rubber flip flops and keep the toilet seat up when taking a shower.

While we're on the subject of bathrooms, it's worth mentioning that latrines / squat toilets (basically a hole in the ground) take some getting used to. Guys have it pretty easy on this one as long as you can hold your breath, but ladies, get ready for some trial and error. I've found the best practice to be bending forward at the waist versus squatting. It keeps you farther away from the hole and helps with aim. Just sayin.

Dust Storm
During the dry season, at least in Maai Mahiu, dust is everywhere. You will get dirty - no exceptions. Avoid wearing white - I am now the proud owner of a brownish button up shirt after making that mistake. And, bring a bandana to use as a mask when things get really bad. Plus, you can tie it around your neck for protection against the sun, use it to wipe off sweat and dust, wet it to cool you off or tie back / hide dirty hair. Neither Brendan or I brought one and we are both in hot pursuit.

African Massage
Not surprisingly, the roads in Africa have been pretty terrible. They are completely unmaintained, meaning you're in for a rough ride no matter where you're heading. The crew at CTC calls the turbulence an "African massage." Traffic is also a huge problem. Our 45 minute trip into the airport last week turned into a 2.5 hour ride due to traffic jams in Nairobi. And that's on a good day. We also were 2 hours late meeting John for our bike ride our first weekend in Maai Mahiu because our taxi was an hour late and then couldn't travel any faster than 45 kilometers (about 30 miles) per hour. Public transport (Mutatus are the equivalent to local buses in Kenya) also run on their own time. They wait until they are full - we waited about 45 minutes for 22 people to pile in to a 10-seater Mutatu in Maai Mahiu. No suggestions here except to come in with realistic expectations. You will get jostled. It will take you significantly longer to get places. You might be shoved in between smelly people with a random child or goat on your lap. Get used to it. And, be prepared to call an audible. On our way back to Maai Mahiu after a hike with no Mutatu in sight, we hitched a ride with a truck driver heading through on his way from DRC to Mombassa. Not something we'd do everyday - or suggest to anyone not in a group - but it got us home and made for a good story.

White Trash
Never in a million years would Brendan or I have imagined collecting trash in Africa. But, in an effort to better understand Maai Mahiu's challenges and CTC's services, we joined their waste management team for a Friday pick up. Wow. CTC started the first official waste management services in Maai Mahiu about one year ago. They encourage the community to participate by paying a small fee for the services and employ local youth to do the pick ups once a week. Surprisingly, it's been an uphill battle. People in Maai Mahiu are used to living with the mess - its all they've ever known - and are slow to come around to paying for services they aren't convinced they need. But, CTC is working to educate the community on the benefits of waste management. To date, over 70 households have signed up.

So, clad in jumpers, rubber boots, gloves and masks, we shoveled our way through one of the many trash piles found around the city and then collected bagged trash from about 30 households. We're so glad we did it - Brendan and I both felt really good about the day and apparently having Mzungus (white people) out picking up trash caused quite the stir and generated some buzz around the program. I can honestly say it was the DIRTIEST work we've ever done. Hats off to the CTC youth for doing it - it's so needed, but so smelly!

Carrying On
I'm sure most of you know this, but Brendan and I decided not to check bags during our 7 month trip. So, everything we own for the next half-year fits into a carry on bag. There is a huge upside to this strategy - we save money on checked bag fees, avoid lost luggage, have less to schlep around, etc. But, it also introduces a few new obstacles. For example, if you only have three outfits, you have to wash clothes. A lot. And, depending on where you are an how much money you have to spend, that means hand washing in buckets, sinks, showers, hoses or whatever you can get your hands on. We lucked out in Maai Mahiu because the hotel let us borrow a bucket and a fellow volunteer donated some clothesline and pins (thanks, Elaine!). Hand washing is great and not too difficult, but in Africa, where everything gets extra dirty (as referenced above), it's easy to be skeptical over how clean things actually get. Now that we're in Zanzibar, we'll be sending everything out for a good, professional scrubbing. If you're traveling light or long-term, pack some clothesline, pins and a good travel detergent.

The other, and obviously girly, issue with carrying on is that you have limited options on what do wear for varied occasions. We'll both do more in-depth packing lists with our thoughts on what we brought, but no matter how great you pack, a carry on requires a certain amount of sacrifice. And even three weeks in, I'm missing my closet. I'd say my current advice would be to take a few things you love enough to wear everyday... Because you will be wearing them everyday. Oh, and make sure you keep up with it all. I'm already a jacket, hat and earring down (shocking, I know). Brendan is, as always, the ultimate boy scout with everything still in tact, in good shape and at the ready. Damn him.

That's the "dirt" on three weeks in Africa. We've appreciated the highs and lows and wouldn't change a thing. We're in Zanzibar now, which is beautiful with a really great energy, so there will be more posts soon! We'll try to keep it real and start including more travel recs now that we're officially on the road!