If This is Koh Rong, We Don't Want to be Right
After taking more buses than you can shake a sore back at down the length of Vietnam and into Cambodia, we were ready for some serious relaxation. Five days of complete disconnect - away from buses, schedules, planning, internet, sightseeing and distractions. No obligations and no responsibilities other than walking from bed to the beach and perhaps to the bar should we feel thirsty. Luckily for us, Cambodia's coastline and surrounding islands offer the beauty of Thailand without the crowds or development, the perfect combination for people like us trying to get away from it all. Our official R&R destination: Koh Rong.
Koh Rong is a small island about 2.5 hours by fishing boat from the Cambodian coastal town of Sihanouksville (which is a bit of a dump unless you're into sex tourism or the creepy old white men it attracts). It's as close to a deserted island as you can get without sacrificing the necessities for total relaxation - food, drink and hammocks. Other than that, it's pretty basic. The island has no electricity, roads or running water, and the handful of bungalow "resorts" are really just bare-bones bamboo huts on the beach. In other words, it's pretty perfect. At least for now. The island is currently under a 99-year lease with a development company that has every right to start building 5-star, all-inclusive resorts on the pristine white sand; but (and this is a big but), they haven't yet.
The beaches on Koh Rong, especially Soksan, are the main attraction and where we spent most of our time. Soksan is the single-most quintessentially beautiful, white-sand, clear-water beach either of us has ever laid eyes on. The surf is almost non-existent, so you can literally float in the water for hours without being disturbed. The water is so clear, you can see straight to the bottom at any depth. The sand is so soft, you don't even need a towel to get comfortable. The beach is so deserted that the only company you'll find are a few island dogs. And the view is so picture-perfect that you're glad to see a few downed trees interrupting the scene (and at times your stroll down the beach) to make it seem real and not curated. At certain times of year, you can even swim with phosphorescent plankton right off the shore.
Our goal of compete rest and relaxation was accomplished in every way. We were lazy. We read. We swam. We slept. We hammocked. We ate and drank. We beached. We explored the island on the only mode of transportation available - foot. And we met some great people with whom we'd be happy to find ourselves stranded on a deserted island again.
Thank you Koh Rong. Please hold out a little longer until you become Koh Pi Pi.