Family Reunions

This morning, Brendan and I watched a young Golden Eagle attempt to work up the courage to fly the nest. He sat on the branches outside the home he was born in, stretched his wings wide and looked bravely into the great beyond (and the ground about 200 feet below him).  Six hours later, he's still perched on that branch, still thinking that today might be the day but not quite knowing if he's ready to leave the comforts of home. After getting over the shock of being within viewing distance of a baby eagle, I realized that his situation is not dissimilar to ours. We leave for Kenya in six days, and while we could not be more excited to start our adventure, we understand that we are also leaving behind the comforts of home, first and foremost, the people we love. So, it is fitting that the last few weeks have been filled with family - the McCorquodales came to Crested Butte for the first time, we attended a Starr family reunion and we are currently on Cebolla Creek (watching eaglets) with Brendan's stepfather Keith and his wonderful partner in crime, Judy.

Having my parents in Crested Butte was so special. They dove right in, jumping on townies (bikes, not people) before we could even walk the three blocks from Brendan's house to the B&B to show them around. The trip was short, but very sweet. We biked around town, hiked out Upper Loop for some scenic views, enjoyed sundowners with a mountain backdrop and spent great time with Brendan's family. We also were lucky to spend time at the Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory in Gothic and be shown around by our friend and RMBL scientist Ann Marie. The work that the researchers are accomplishing is incredible. For example, Ann Marie is working in the longest running climate change experiment in the world, collectively gathering data for over 20 years now. Needless to say, Jan and Kenny Mac are big fans of CB and Jim and Annie. Brendan and I are so lucky to have such easy, fun parents that actually enjoy each other's company.

The day my parents left town, we went on one of the most epic hikes of the trip. We were with our Crested Butte family, Jim and Annie, and some friends who had three generations (grandpa, his son and his son's wife and their one-year old daughter... who, by the way was the toughest person in the group by far) and three Alaskan sled dogs in tow. We hiked out of Scofield Pass to Haisley Basin, which is so beautiful that there are actually a large number of babies named Haisley in Colorado. The basin is a brilliant shade of green with Alpine lakes and scattered groves of aspen and pine, surrounded by stark white peaks. Brendan got some amazing shots, and Annie summed it up perfectly when she observed to herself, "If I were an elk, I'd live here."

One of the many perks of the Haisley Basin hike is the proximity to the Maroon Bells, Colorado's most photographed mountains. So, armed with Brendan's Sony NEX 7, we traversed over to Frigidaire Pass for a dead-on view of the famous peaks. The Maroon Bells lived up to their reputation. Their dark rust color and jagged peaks provide a stark contrast to the smooth white and gray slopes surrounding it. It is, at the risk of sounding redundant, one of the most dramatic views of the trip (top photo). Even a hail storm on the 6 mile trek back to the car couldn't put a blemish on a beautiful day. The baby slept right through it.

The next week, we channeled our inner Griswolds, loaded up the station wagon and headed to Estes Park, Colorado for the bi-annual Starr family reunion. We split the trip into two parts, stopping in Glenwood Springs for a dip in the same healing hot springs that brought Doc Holliday to the area in the late 1880s. We also, thanks to the Digital Chief (Brendan) and modern technology (a.k.a., YELP), discovered Pullman's Restaurant and had a fantastic dinner before heading on to the Comfort Inn in Eagle for the night. I should mention that the lock on the back hatch of the station wagon (actually Subaru Outback, but if you want to picture a Woody, please do) was broken, so every stop became an exercise in creative parking. Walls, hedges and fences guarded our belongings (which for Brendan and I is pretty much everything we have for the next 8 months) while we swam, scarfed and slept. Clark would have been proud.

We arrived in Estes Park, home to Rocky Mountain National Park, the Stanley Hotel (The Shining), and what must be the country's largest concentration of ice cream and taffy shops, the next afternoon for the Starr family reunion. This was the 20th reunion for the family and, at just over 50 people present, was somewhat small compared to past reunions. The largest, held in South Dakota about a decade earlier, counted more than 120. As a member of a small family, I was truly impressed with the strong relationships in such a large and diverse group of people. We played hearts, had Moscow Mules by the campfire, golfed, hiked, and just enjoyed each other's company. It was a special weekend, topped off by a memorable and much-anticipated performance of the Starr family song.

Flash forward a day, a camping trip, an 8-hour bushwhacking wilderness adventure, and an inaugural visit to Brendan's namesake landmark (Benny's Bowl), and here we are, on Cebolla Creek at the last of our family reunions. Cebolla Creek is a private stretch of stream off of Blue Mesa where Brendan grew up camping and fishing with his mom and stepdad, Keith. Now, the tents have been replaced by an amazing cabin (which Keith built with his bare hands), but the fishing and company is still top notch. I got to add two more fly fishing trips to my roster (now at three, total) and Brendan came away as the angler of the weekend with about six or seven 10" plus Brown and Rainbow trouts! We ate what we caught on the first day and released the fish to see another catch on the second. Cebolla Creek is also where we are writing this entry and watching the Golden Eagles from the living room window.

We came home to a beautiful home-cooked meal (thanks Annie!) and spent our last night in CB doing exactly what we did on the first... Sitting around the dining room table, enjoying great food, delicious wine and wonderful conversation with the family. What a perfect way to end our time in our Colorado home and three weeks of family reunions.

UPDATE: The baby eagle officially left the nest the morning after we wrote this post. Bon voyage!

Is this Real Life?

On Sunday, we had plans to meet Jacque, Ryan, Oliver and Murphy in Telluride, another amazing ski town about 3.5 hours southwest of Crested Butte. And, to top it off, we had permission from Jim to take his 1986 red, convertible Alpha Romeo along for the ride. Now, there are some very sexy attributes to an Italian sports car with some "history" (there are also some less sexy attributes, which we'll get into later). But, on the way there, it was incredible. Beautiful weather, cool air, the sun on our shoulders, winding mountain roads and amazing scenery. We cruised into Telluride on a high from the drive. We were in love with the Alpha. And Telluride didn't look so bad either. The town and ski area are nestled in between steep, jagged mountains with Bridal Veil Falls, a 365' waterfall, at the center. Coloradans actually refer to Telluride as the Alps of the West as they more closely resemble the European mountain range than their American counterparts. European or American, they are stunning.

One of the great things about Telluride is the gondola system. Three separate gondolas take you from the mountain to town and even to the market. Imagine going to the grocery store via gondola! Pretty unreal. It also makes for safe travel, as we found out after a fun night on the town on our first night.

Monday morning was beautiful and beckoned us outside for the day with a hike up to Silver Lake. By far the most difficult hike so far on the trip, the Silver Lake trail is more like a game trail than a man-made hiking trail. It is decently steep and took us through several creek crossings, an Aspen forest and up about 2,500 feet of vert (vertical, for those new to Colorado terminology like me). In the end, like most things, it was well worth the work. Silver Lake is unbelievable. The water is crystal clear, with 20" trout swimming just below the surface and multiple waterfalls feeding the pool. And, with the exception of a few fishermen, we had it all to ourselves. Brendan decided to make his dad proud and stripped down to his skivvies to take a cold plunge while the rest of us cowards watched from the warm rocks on the bank. With some rain clouds looming, we packed up our stuff and headed down the trail. A few slips, loose rock and branches grabbed later, we were back where we started, amazed by how much easier it is to come down than go up and completely satisfied by the adventure. We headed back to the condo to freshen up, had a quick cocktail (Ryan and Jacque make the best Moscow Mules - vodka, ginger beer and fresh lime), and headed to dinner.

As many of you know, we LOVE food and appreciate great food experiences. So, I feel like we have to tell you a bit about our dinner. "There" is an Asian-influenced tapas bar in a small house in Telluride. The comic-book themed menu features everything from elk steam buns to king crab ramen to curried beef lettuce wraps. It's mountain meets Asian and it is delicious. To top it off, the owners / creative partners have created a "blacklist" cocktail menu that is full of unique concoctions that, despite odd pairings, had us all impressed (and maybe a bit tipsy). If you ever find yourself in Telluride, check it out. And, Texans will be lucky soon. "There" is opening a sister restaurant in Lowest Greenville in Dallas within the next six months. Yum.

Tuesday morning marked our departure and we were excited to get back into the Alpha for another romantic road trip. Unfortunately, the weather and the Alpha had other plans. The day we left, the temperature was a good 10 degrees warmer, with no cloud cover. Meaning, the warm sun that had kissed our shoulders on the way in was burning down on us. We stopped about half way home to grab a bite, cool off - I should mention the the Alpha has no A/C - and put the top up. Apparently, we were not the only ones hot and bothered. The Alpha refused to start.  We realize that this is an entirely ridiculous and first-world problem, but being stuck in Montrose, CO was not what we had in mind to end the trip. Luckily, we made it home (with only one more breakdown along the way). Bottom line, if that's the worst of our problems, life is good. Very good.

Hello, Colorado!

The last few weeks have been a whirlwind. Friends and family in Texas treated us to the longest and most celebrated goodbye in history - parties, dinners, family lock-ins, surprise visits from old friends and more hugs than we could handle. Between epic meals and hangovers, we packed our lives into a 10'x16' mobile storage unit, dropped cars off in family driveways and headed to Denver on July 2, 2012. After a quick shuttle ride and about nine flights of stairs, we treated ourselves to a delicious Greek dinner with Brendan's brother Jamie and his lovely girlfriend Lili. Twelve hours later, we were in Boulder, hitching a ride to Crested Butte with our friends Ryan and Jacque, their two dogs, Oliver and Murphy, and a car full of luggage containing everything from dog beds to malaria medication.

The 4-hour drive delivered on everything a Colorado road trip promises - beautiful scenery, quaint towns, winding mountain passes and a noticeable shortage of bathrooms. TIP - take advantage of rest stops and gas stations while you can when driving though the mountains in CO! We arrived accident free at the first official stop on our tour, Crested Butte, Colorado, in time to grab a quick shower and a meal with the family (Jim and Annie) before heading to Brendan's Eleven Year High School Reunion. The event was hosted by the class below him who was throwing their more traditional Ten-Year Reunion, but, in true Crested Butte form, everyone was invited. We caught up with friends, survived a near bat attack, turned down roadkill BBQ and moved on to the town's local bar, The Talk of the Town, to officially kick off the trip.

We continued the celebration the next morning at the annual Fourth of July parade. Watching a small-town parade in arguably one of the most beautiful places in America is definitely an experience worth having. It can turn even the biggest cynic into a hot-dog eating, flag-waving American. Speaking of hot dogs and flag waving, the post-parade-picnic at the Starr residence included a town hall meeting of sorts with Senator Michael Bennet. Definitely a first for us, but we were very impressed by the Senator's accessibility and candidness. And, the hot dogs were a hit. The night ended without fireworks (burn bans prohibited them in CB), but all-in-all, it was a great day. Happy birthday America.

We attempted to use the next few days to shift focus from celebrating (a.k.a. drinking and staying out late) to the best of what CB has to offer - outdoor activities. On day one of the "new us," we hiked for about 7 miles (24,400 steps, thanks to Brendan's Nike Fuel Band) across Woodwalk, Budd Trail and Lower Loop. Then, we rewarded ourselves with drinks, dinner and a return trip to The Talk. Day (and try) 2, we met up with friends, Eric and Melissa, and hiked up Scarp's Ridge, about 20 minutes outside of Crested Butte. While much shorter than our previous hike (only 10,300 steps), the Scarp's Ridge hike puts flat landers to shame with it's steep inclines. The payoff in the end is well worth it though - with 360 degree views of some of Colorado's most beautiful and famous mountains. If the closing scene from The Sound of Music included four members of the Von Trapp family doubled over trying to catch their breath, it would be our hike. Apparently it takes two weeks to fully acclimate to the altitude, so we'll have to try again later to test the theory. And, in the meantime, we'll keep hiking, biking and gettin' fit.