Our first Saturday in Maai Mahiu, we received an unexpected invitation to go mountain biking with NPR's East Africa Correspondent, John Burnett, in Hell's Gate National Park. We had never met John, knew nothing about Hell's Gate and couldn't find the park on the map. So, of course we accepted. According to John, mountain biking is a relatively new sport in Kenya, but it's growing in popularity. The gear hasn't quite caught up to the trend, so the bikes we rented weren't exactly what we were used to riding in Crested Butte, but we were about to bike through an African National Park, so who the hell cared?!

The ride did not disappoint. Hell's Gate National Park sits on top of a geothermal hotspot created by a nearby volcano, Mount Longonot, and is full of interesting landmarks. Perhaps the most notable are two volcanic plugs, Fischer's Tower and Central Tower, that seem to grow from the earth out of nowhere. The tribe who first inhabited the land believed that the two towers were the petrified daughters of the village chief, who bucked tradition by looking back toward home on their way out to marry. History lesson aside, the landscape is straight out of Jurassic Park. Huge groves of old-growth trees, dramatic cliff faces, expansive meadows. And... Wildlife! Not dinosaurs, but almost as unexpected and exciting. We saw zebras, warthogs, cape buffalo, springbok, and a giraffe! From our bikes! It was such a surreal experience, made even better by the beautiful golden-hour light and tailwind on our ride home.

The other attraction at the park is Hell's Gate itself. Hell's Gate is a gorge named by the Maasai to describe the entry point to the center of the earth. Now, Maasai guides take Mzungus (visitors) into the gorge for tours. Our guide, also named John, showed us around and shared stories of Maasai tradition and change. Up until 10 years ago or so, the Maasai men would be sent out into the bush at 21 to learn the land, survival and courage. The final test of courage was to kill a lion, armed with only his spear and his wits. John was one of the last in his village to participate in the tradition, something for which he carries a scar to prove. It was interesting talking to him about change and progress. He has two sons, who will put education before more traditional Maasai rights of passage. His mindset is similar to many in Africa... Roll with the times.

We ended the day with sundowners on the lake and one more animal sighting... hippos!

Two days later, Brendan and I loaded up into the CTC van with the Health team to visit a group of Maasai grandmothers enrolled in the GAPA program (Grandmothers Against Poverty and HIV/AIDS). The meeting site was about an hour's drive off the main road at a Maasai community house that seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. Twenty four cu cus (grandmothers, pronounced sho sho) and over 100 of their kids had walked - some for several hours - to attend the meeting.

The day was emotional and wonderful. These women are some of the strongest, most beautiful women we've ever met. They've been left to care for young children after losing their own, with miles between them and any potential support systems, and still they smile and sing. Some of the cu cus are over 100 years old (one actually said she was 125, but we're guessing that may be a bit of a stretch), and are raising four or five kids under the age of six. It is truly amazing.

The purpose of the visit was to meet with the cu cus, learn more about their needs and deliver supplies for bracelet making, which will soon help generate income for the group. Just as we've seen in other groups, most of the women live in extreme poverty and having a way to support their families is the first step. If they can earn a living (which the bracelets will enable), they can focus on taking care of the kids and their own health and happiness. As we were leaving, one of the cu cus motioned us to join her at the front of the room. They offered us gifts of beautiful beadwork jewelry and a glass of fermented milk to thank us for coming. While we were trying to finish our drinks - it was like a warm milkshake with the occasional chunk - we looked around and were overwhelmed by the generosity of these cu cus who have so much on their plate and so little to give.

Even though we’re only a week into the trip with so much ahead, we have no doubt that our time with the cu cus will be an experience we’ll never forget.