Power Sightseeing in Bangkok
With only one full day in Bangkok with the entire crew and an ambitious list of sights to see, we had our hands full. We left the apartment at 9am and hopped on a long tail to China Town. We were tired, hungover and hot - it was about 99 degrees and humid, and made even us native Texans sweat our butts off. But, we were excited to be together in Thailand and were going to make the most of the day, even if it killed us (famous last words).
Our first destination: The Grand Palace. We had heard and read that it's best to go as early as possible to avoid the biggest of the crowds. So true. The Grand Palace is huge and Bangkok's most popular tourist attraction, so its a bit of a hassle, but definitely worth seeing. Get a guide to get the full story and avoid getting overwhelmed - it's cheap, only about 300 baht ($10). The palace was built in the late 1700s and was home to the royal family until the 1920s. It's still used for special events and has a separate estate to house important guests (Obama was rumored to be staying there during his time in Thailand the week after we visited), but most of it is open to the public and operates as a museum. The Emerald Buddha is probably its biggest single attraction, but there are many. It's the Versailles of Thailand (without the sprawling grounds, the GP is right in the middle of the city). Its absolutely beautiful. All of its buildings are covered in gold, adorned with Buddhist history and lore and built perfectly and ornately down to the last detail. Like most everything in Thailand, Buddhism is inherently tied into the art, architecture and purpose of the palace, so it actually feels more spiritual than official.
Seeing all the Grand Palace has to offer in the heat and sun with the crowds is a big job and two hours into the tour we were hot and ready to drop. Then, as if by divine intervention, we found our salvation. The smartest vendor in Thailand was selling frozen hand towels to desperate tourists for 30 baht a piece right inside the palace walls. It was life-changing. We rested and cooled in the shade with the ice cold rags around our necks, got our strength back and marched forward.
From the Grand Palace, we headed down the street to Wat Pho, home to the Reclining Buddha, a 45 foot tall half-a-football-field-long golden Buddha, laying on his side, head propped up in his hand. Us ladies dutifully pulled on the provided lime green polyester spa robes - the guys got out of this one as their dress code is a bit less strict. Guys tend to be okay most places in anything that's not a tank top, but women need to have their shoulders and legs covered inside temple walls and in some places (especially more rural) around town. The attire did not distract from the experience at all. The Reclining Buddha is every bit as impressive as the guidebooks build up and the Wat itself is something to behold. Being inside of a temple in Thailand, where Buddhism is as much a part of daily life and culture as food, is something special. You just feel the spirituality of the place. And all that to honor someone who is not recognized as a God, only as the highest example of enlightenment. It's truly amazing and makes you think. As we were regrouping to head on, the clouds came together over the sun in a way that created the most beautiful light. It was like a rainbow without the familiar shape or colors. Or a sunset in the middle of the day with no horizon. Pinks and blues and purples, visible rays. It was enough to render the seven of us speechless for a few minutes as we stared at the sky beyond the Wat's ornate gold trim. And almost enough to make us forget about the heat... Almost.
Exhausted from hours of touring, we hitched a ride with three tuk tuks and raced through the city to our apartment. B, Steph and I were solidly in the lead for the first half, then Rick and Gillian flew past us, followed by Megan and Jimmy who came out of nowhere from a different route. We all fought for position as the tuk tuks bobbed and weaved through Bangkok traffic, neck and neck until the end. I don't even remember who won in the end (probably because it definitely wasn't us), but it was a fun ride.
That night, we got fancy for a night in the town. We started with drinks at Long Table, a rooftop bar overlooking the Bangkok skyline. The drinks aren't cheap by Thai standards, but they offer buy-one-get-one free deals that make it more affordable if you're on a budget. Although, be aware that the buy-one-get-one in this case is for individuals, not the table. So, my glass of white wine magically turned into two in the thirty minutes we were there. Cheers! And the view of the city at night is pretty spectacular. Next up was dinner at Bo.Lan, a Thai fine-dining landmark. We opted for the all-in, family-style set menu which ended up being about 10 different dishes, including a welcome drink, dessert and everything in between. If you're looking for a fine-dining experience in Thailand, this one is great. Good food, great presentation, cool vibe. But, it's not very wallet friendly for travelers. If you're on a budget, no worries - there is plenty of amazing food out there for you. Our meals at Pla Dip and Sebaijai Kebtawan were both outstanding and only $10-$15 a piece with drinks and the street food promises deliciousness for less than $2 a plate. In fact, the more time we spend in Thailand, the more we see that splurging on food experiences is not necessary - even if you appreciate a nice meal like us. The best food is found on the street and in the small stalls that line it. Find locals, go where they go. It will be good. And most likely $2-$3 a person.
The meal was the final nail in the coffin for us weary tourists and we cancelled our wild night out in Bangkok for some sleep and packing for our trip down to the islands the next morning.