After the three-day train ride and a night at a backpacker's lodge in Lusaka, we were ready for a little luxury. It's all about balance right? Luckily, it was time for safari, by far the biggest indulgence of our trip. We flew to Mfuwe (quite a different experience and crowd than the Tazara train line) and were whisked away by Shenton Safari's head guide and owner. Beers and sandwiches were pre-packed to ensure we didn't go hungry or thirsty (a theme on safari) and we popped open a cold one, sat back in the open-air vehicle, and toasted the coming week.

We chose Shenton Safaris for several reasons. First, it's located in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia, one of the best game-viewing areas in Africa and shockingly also one of the least commercialized. Second, Shenton Safaris is an ethical operator with both a permanent and bush camp (built from zero footprint each year for minimal impact) offering a wide variety of experiences without the crowds. We were two of six total guests at each camp and rarely saw other vehicles in the park. After hearing stories of 17-car pile-ups in the Serengeti and worrying that game-viewing could end up more like a day at the zoo, having the park basically to ourselves was a wonderful surprise. And, to top it off, the few other people at camp with us were some of the most interesting and enjoyable we've met to date. Third, Shenton specializes in photography and understand intimately how to facilitate the best shots, which is great for my better half who is becoming quite the talented photographer (prepare yourself for some great ones). And last, and most important, Brent Harris. Brendan's mom introduced us to Brent when we decided Africa would be the first stop on our trip. He is an extremely experienced and knowledgable guide who is contagiously passionate about his work and the world around him. He was so helpful in shaping our safari experience and, in the end, we followed him to Zambia, where he's been guiding for the past several years. If you ever want an authentic nature experience in Africa, in Zambia or elsewhere, look him up though his Primal Pathways company. He absolutely made our trip something special.

With Brent's help, we took full advantage of our six days on safari. Each day started with a 5:15 morning drive, offered an afternoon trip to one of Shenton's photographic hides and ended with an evening drive. Between activities, we were fed... And fed... And fed some more. We spent time at both camps, and got to stay two nights out in nature - an experience we will not soon forget. The first was in the Elephant Hide - a treehouse built for two overlooking the Luangwa River. Armed with a bottle of wine and a spotlight, we listened to the sounds of the river below us and the forest around us and slept like babies in the middle of it all. The next morning we learned that lions had killed a buffalo just down the river from us, but we slept right through it! We woke up with the sun, feeling more refreshed than we had in weeks.

That afternoon, we packed up our backpacks and walked about 3 hours to a remote campsite to sleep under the stars. The camp was simple - a mattress under a mosquito net with a fire perimeter and a Zambian anti-poaching scout named Gideon for protection. The walk to and from the site and sleeping out in the Zambian bush was an entirely special and humbling experience. By stepping out of the Land Rover and luxury lodge, you immediately become aware of the world around you... And it of you. In the vehicle, the animals don't recognize you as human or as a potential threat. You can drive right up to them with as little as a lazy look in your direction (which is still extremely cool, don't get us wrong). On foot, you're exposed and identified as a predator. You have to use your animal instincts and senses to get to know your surroundings - both to find the things you want to find and avoid those you don't. It truly feels like you are part of nature, not just passively viewing it. At one point, we inadvertently walked into the middle of a herd of elephants. We had to be careful to stay downwind so as not to be noticed, and got to watch them for nearly 20 minutes without them even knowing we were there before taking a long detour to get around the herd safely. Camping safari-style, even in its most basic form, does come with its perks. Most notable for us... Not having to set up or break down camp!

Thanks to Brent and Shenton, we came away from safari sufficiently spoiled (and a few pounds heavier), but also more knowledgable and appreciative of vast wilderness and wildlife. We became unsuspecting birders - they are amazing to learn about, listen to and watch. We fell in love with elephants and suspect the feeling was mutual as they followed us around everywhere. We saw the beauty in the gore - who knew watching lions tear apart a puku could feel so natural? We read the signs of the bush - tracking a leopard on foot. We got nervous with a few close encounters with elephant and lion. And we were impressed at the efficiency and effectiveness of nature - as the "smarter species" we can learn so much from it.

There are too many highlights to describe, so luckily we have about 150 photographs to do most of the talking for us. Check them out here.