Swimming in Victoria Falls

"When you jump, make sure you jump out, toward the falls. Let the current pull you to the edge, and then catch yourself on the shelf before you go over." Brendan went first. He jumped off the rocks, floated several feet down river and sat up on the four-foot ledge that stands between the top of the Zambezi and Victoria Falls. Just behind him, water fell down the 350 foot drop sending white clouds of mist back up the length of the Falls and creating a perfect double rainbow (what does it mean?!). I followed and in a matter of minutes we were both sitting of the edge of a waterfall.

To be completely honest, the experience saved the visit to Victoria Falls Park. During dry season, the Falls don't exactly form the thundering curtain of water you've seen in photos and guidebooks. It's still very pretty and it's nice to miss the crowds, but we found ourselves walking the trails wondering if "that" was Victoria Falls. We were worried that we'd leave disappointed, but getting to swim to the edge of the Falls completely made up for it. It was a different pay off than we'd expected, but in many ways it was even more memorable. Moral of the story... If you can't see Vic Falls at its most impressive (Nov. - April.), make sure you can get in the water! Note that you can only do this on the Zambia side (Vic Falls straddles Zambia and Zimbabwe) during dry season so plan accordingly!

Two days before our swim, we had reluctantly left South Luangwa, driving through the park one last time on our way out behind a pair of giraffes on a morning stroll. We flew from Mfuwe to Lusaka, found our way back to Lusaka Backpackers and hopped a bus to Livingstone the next morning after a quick breakfast and a chance meeting with a fellow American (more on that in a later post). We wanted to check out (and off) Victoria Falls before we left Zambia. We arrived in Livingstone completely un-researched. We only wanted to see Victoria Falls and figured we could easily wing it. We were right... Livingstone is small and the Falls are by far the biggest attraction.

We found a taxi at the town center, got a ride out to Victoria Falls National Park and inquired about the "Devil's Pool Experience" which we had seen advertised at our lodge the night before. Within an hour (and after signing some papers promising we wouldn't try to fly off the waterfall and preventing us from suing anyone if we did), we headed out along the dry edge of the Falls. The walk takes about an hour and offers some nice views of the Falls along the way.

Like many activities in Africa, there are few (if any) rules, so we were limited only by our own comfort zone and common sense - if we had wanted to try hand stands on the edge, our guide probably would have wished us luck. We opted out. After the walk, we were told to disrobe and swim across a section of the Zambezi over to a small rock "island." The river signifies the heart of Victoria Falls, and there is a current to prove it. There is a small net between the swimmers and the edge, but it was some comfort to know that Brendan and I are both decent swimmers. Our guide kept the boogie board to himself. Once we were all safely on the rocks and issued our basic instructions, we jumped in. For the next 20 minutes, we swam, "flew" over the edge, posed for photos and waved at those less fortunate tourists in Zimbabwe. 

Before we left the park, we walked down to the lower part of the river, to an area called the Boiling Pot and watched a bungee jumper have her own adventure. We also haggled at the market for a "handmade" ebony elephant and finally got a great price of 35,000 Kwacha (about $6). We've seen the exact same elephant in every market since, so I'm pretty sure we were duped, but we got to practice our good cop (Brittni) / bad cop (Brendan) negotiating tactics, so all-in-all, it was a successful shopping trip.

Dinner at the Zambezi Cafe that night turned out to be a pleasant surprise... By far the
best fish we've had in Africa! We went to bed satisfied with our Vic Falls excursion and woke up ready for Cape Town.

South Luangwa Safari

After the three-day train ride and a night at a backpacker's lodge in Lusaka, we were ready for a little luxury. It's all about balance right? Luckily, it was time for safari, by far the biggest indulgence of our trip. We flew to Mfuwe (quite a different experience and crowd than the Tazara train line) and were whisked away by Shenton Safari's head guide and owner. Beers and sandwiches were pre-packed to ensure we didn't go hungry or thirsty (a theme on safari) and we popped open a cold one, sat back in the open-air vehicle, and toasted the coming week.

We chose Shenton Safaris for several reasons. First, it's located in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia, one of the best game-viewing areas in Africa and shockingly also one of the least commercialized. Second, Shenton Safaris is an ethical operator with both a permanent and bush camp (built from zero footprint each year for minimal impact) offering a wide variety of experiences without the crowds. We were two of six total guests at each camp and rarely saw other vehicles in the park. After hearing stories of 17-car pile-ups in the Serengeti and worrying that game-viewing could end up more like a day at the zoo, having the park basically to ourselves was a wonderful surprise. And, to top it off, the few other people at camp with us were some of the most interesting and enjoyable we've met to date. Third, Shenton specializes in photography and understand intimately how to facilitate the best shots, which is great for my better half who is becoming quite the talented photographer (prepare yourself for some great ones). And last, and most important, Brent Harris. Brendan's mom introduced us to Brent when we decided Africa would be the first stop on our trip. He is an extremely experienced and knowledgable guide who is contagiously passionate about his work and the world around him. He was so helpful in shaping our safari experience and, in the end, we followed him to Zambia, where he's been guiding for the past several years. If you ever want an authentic nature experience in Africa, in Zambia or elsewhere, look him up though his Primal Pathways company. He absolutely made our trip something special.

With Brent's help, we took full advantage of our six days on safari. Each day started with a 5:15 morning drive, offered an afternoon trip to one of Shenton's photographic hides and ended with an evening drive. Between activities, we were fed... And fed... And fed some more. We spent time at both camps, and got to stay two nights out in nature - an experience we will not soon forget. The first was in the Elephant Hide - a treehouse built for two overlooking the Luangwa River. Armed with a bottle of wine and a spotlight, we listened to the sounds of the river below us and the forest around us and slept like babies in the middle of it all. The next morning we learned that lions had killed a buffalo just down the river from us, but we slept right through it! We woke up with the sun, feeling more refreshed than we had in weeks.

That afternoon, we packed up our backpacks and walked about 3 hours to a remote campsite to sleep under the stars. The camp was simple - a mattress under a mosquito net with a fire perimeter and a Zambian anti-poaching scout named Gideon for protection. The walk to and from the site and sleeping out in the Zambian bush was an entirely special and humbling experience. By stepping out of the Land Rover and luxury lodge, you immediately become aware of the world around you... And it of you. In the vehicle, the animals don't recognize you as human or as a potential threat. You can drive right up to them with as little as a lazy look in your direction (which is still extremely cool, don't get us wrong). On foot, you're exposed and identified as a predator. You have to use your animal instincts and senses to get to know your surroundings - both to find the things you want to find and avoid those you don't. It truly feels like you are part of nature, not just passively viewing it. At one point, we inadvertently walked into the middle of a herd of elephants. We had to be careful to stay downwind so as not to be noticed, and got to watch them for nearly 20 minutes without them even knowing we were there before taking a long detour to get around the herd safely. Camping safari-style, even in its most basic form, does come with its perks. Most notable for us... Not having to set up or break down camp!

Thanks to Brent and Shenton, we came away from safari sufficiently spoiled (and a few pounds heavier), but also more knowledgable and appreciative of vast wilderness and wildlife. We became unsuspecting birders - they are amazing to learn about, listen to and watch. We fell in love with elephants and suspect the feeling was mutual as they followed us around everywhere. We saw the beauty in the gore - who knew watching lions tear apart a puku could feel so natural? We read the signs of the bush - tracking a leopard on foot. We got nervous with a few close encounters with elephant and lion. And we were impressed at the efficiency and effectiveness of nature - as the "smarter species" we can learn so much from it.

There are too many highlights to describe, so luckily we have about 150 photographs to do most of the talking for us. Check them out here.

Just Another Day on The Train

Two days ago, we said goodbye to Zanzibar, leaving behind the quiet white sand beaches of the East Coast and the chaotic labyrinth of Stone Town to head south to Zambia for safari. The plan was simple: 7am ferry from Zanzibar to Dar Es Salaam (capitol of Tanzania); short taxi to the train station; 2-day train to Kapriri Mposhi; 2-hour bus to Lusaka; quick cab to our lodge for the night; transport to the airport; 2.5-hour flight to Mfuwe and, finally, a 3 to 4 hour game drive to our final destination, Kaingo Camp in South Luangwa National Park. Okay, so maybe it's not all that simple, especially when you throw in 20 hour delays, new definitions for "buses" and completely unfamiliar cities. But, sitting here on the train for the third day now (we're currently 16 hours delayed), looking out the window at the changing Zambian landscape, we can't help but recognize that in Africa, the journey is always part of the destination.

The Tazara train line runs nearly 2,000km (1,200 miles) from Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania to Kapiri Mposhi, Zambia. It was built in the late 1960s by the Chinese and, from the looks of it, hasn't changed much since. Two different, but apparently equally worn, trains leave from Dar Es Salaam twice a week. The "Express" route leaves on Tuesdays and makes only a few stops on the way down to its final destination. The "Ordinary" route departs on Fridays, is a cheaper ticket, and stops in what seems like every village between Dar and Kapiri Mposhi. Being the fancy travelers we are - and because Tazara doesn't allow girls and boys to fraternize in sleeper cars unless they have purchased the entire cabin for themselves - Brendan and I booked four first class tickets on the Ordinary Train.

We got to the station in Dar Es Salaam early in anticipation of complications, but the station master had reserved our tickets as promised and with a quick payment of about 300,000 Tanzanian Shillings ($180, compared to flights priced over $600 a pop) we were ready to go. Unfortunately, the train was not. Over the next six hours, we made ourselves comfortable in the waiting area alongside roughly 500 to 600 Africans and 10 other "foreigners," including four Germans, two Brits, a Dane, a Czechoslovakian and two Chinese who actually work with Tazara (on what, we're not sure). Not surprisingly, we all found each other and made fast friends. We even made a cabin mate, Mona from Denmark, who was traveling on her own to Mpungulu, Zambia for an internship.

When the train finally pulled into the station, the crowds migrated outside to the platform. Porters pushed carts full of goods purchased in the city, women carried children on their backs and balanced luggage expertly their heads, boxes and suitcases were handed in through windows from one family member to another (so many of the passengers had unbelievable amounts of "stuff" with them). And, despite cabins being pre-assigned, there was a rush to board the train resulting in some temporary chaos and a few misunderstandings of who was supposed to be where. We ended up switching cabins with a group of Zambian women who had misread their tickets and already loaded about 30 bags and boxes into ours before we even found it. Once we got settled into our new cabin, picked beds and stowed our luggage, the train was leaving the station heading out into Africa.

The absolute best part about train travel in Africa is the scenery. Sitting at the window and watching the changing landscapes roll by is a wonderful way to see some of the less traveled, but very beautiful, parts of Tanzania and Zambia. The Tazara line passes through Selous Game Park, the biggest in Tanzania, heads up into the mountains in the south of the country and then down into the Zambian plains, filled with ancient baobab trees, tall grasses and fall-colored leaves. We've also passed through dozens of villages, which seemed to come out in mass to see the train through. When we stop, which is often, the local women walk the length of the train to sell fruit and baked goods through the windows while the men hawk everything from radios to shoes to jewelry and children play by the tracks and talk to passengers. One group of kids, including a sassy high-heeled boy of about 10, played a card game with us for some time and helped us practice our Swahili numbers while we waited. Unfortunately, many of the kids also ask for - or more accurately, demand - some sort of handout... Mzungu, give me money! Mzungu, give me something sweet to eat!

There are also a few elements of African train travel that we've had to get used to. For one, the train bounces. Up and down, not a side-to-side sway. There have actually been a few times when the bouncing has lifted one of us completely off our seats. We're not sure why it happens, but our guess is that it probably shouldn't. The noises on the Tazara line are another mystery. Each time we brake or accelerate, it sounds like a rocket blaster on the caboose backfired. On occasion, the sound is accompanied by a significant lurch forward or backward, that can send you across the cabin if you aren't  careful (Brendan has a bruise to prove it). Not surprisingly, very little information is given on the train - there are no maps provided, no announcements of stops and no explanations offered for hours-long delays. We're lucky to be getting off at the last stop, but if you have to depart sooner, like Mona, you have to piece together information, seek out friendly locals and keep your fingers crossed that you're getting off at the right station at 2am.

But, despite it's shortcomings and long delays, and assuming we actually make it to Kapiri Mposhi, the train has been a good experience. We've seen a lot of the continent we would have missed on a plane, met great people, eaten "drive thru" African fare, read... a lot, learned new card games from all over the world, and are still interested in the scenery 60 hours later. If we get to a day four, we might be singing a different tune, but for now, we're enjoying the journey.

UPDATE: We finally made it to Kapiri Mposhi after 67 hours (19 hours later than expected). From there, we took a mini-bus made for 9 but packed with 17 for two hours to get to Lusaka, where we were thankfully able to take long, hot showers and pass out in a clean, bounce-free and somewhat quiet room. We're looking forward to being spoiled on safari for the next week!